Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Monkey in the Middle

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 3.5 from 560 votes
FA: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh - 1992
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Natural Bridge… > Zoo > Old Zoo

Description

Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.

Location

30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"

Protection

9 bolts with 2BA with quicklinks for lowering

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Michael getting a good shake out mid-route
[Hide Photo] Michael getting a good shake out mid-route
David working his way up through the first bolt on Monkey in the Middle
[Hide Photo] David working his way up through the first bolt on Monkey in the Middle
Sometimes while climbing you run the risk of getting too hot and BECOMING A GOD.
[Hide Photo] Sometimes while climbing you run the risk of getting too hot and BECOMING A GOD.
Shawn mid send
[Hide Photo] Shawn mid send
Dustin pushing through it
[Hide Photo] Dustin pushing through it
Climber starting up Monkey in the Middle
[Hide Photo] Climber starting up Monkey in the Middle
Leading Monkey in the Middle. Raining but it was totally dry on the cliff!
[Hide Photo] Leading Monkey in the Middle. Raining but it was totally dry on the cliff!
Giving a good look at the roof above
[Hide Photo] Giving a good look at the roof above
This gives you an idea of how steep the route is. There are portions of steepness interspaced between vertical rest sections.
[Hide Photo] This gives you an idea of how steep the route is. There are portions of steepness interspaced between vertical rest sections.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Gail Blauer
Gardiner, NY
[Hide Comment] This is an awesome, sustained, steep jug haul. Start on very steep wall, climb a couple of bolts worth of vertical, take your rest and climb the rest of the way up an overhanging headwall. Super fun climbing, jugs everywhere you place a hand. Jun 26, 2009
Stefano Prezioso
Superior, CO
[Hide Comment] I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8. Mar 9, 2012
Andrew1986
Knoxville
[Hide Comment] Agree 9 bolts to anchors. Came up one short this weekend. Oct 22, 2012
Jeff Edge
Bend, OR
 
[Hide Comment] Somebody chalked "Wasp at anchors" at the start, but I didn't find any. Although there were a few buzzing around off to the left a little bit, I guess they must've moved. Great route, technical crux seemed to be right at the start Aug 18, 2013
sean w
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] Amazing climb. Guidebook says 8 bolts but we also clipped 9 to the anchors. Someone put in some nice tick marks that were reassuring when you're getting pumped out at the top. Dec 2, 2017
James Elric
rockville
[Hide Comment] a new favorite - would probably make an ideal first 11a. great holds and obvious moves, super secure clipping all the way. requires a lot less thought than the 5.9 "welcome to the zoo" imo. The kind of route you can botch but still have plenty of margin to adjust and recover. Oct 15, 2019
Adam Brawner
Chattanooga, TN
 
[Hide Comment] I feel like I'm smoking crazy pills. This climb was NOT enjoyable in the least for me. Jun 30, 2022