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Monkey in the Middle
5.11a,
Sport, 80 ft (24 m),
Avg: 3.5 from 560
votes
FA: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh - 1992
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Natural Bridge…
> Zoo
> Old Zoo
Description
Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.
Location
30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"
Protection
9 bolts with 2BA with quicklinks for lowering
[Hide Photo] Michael getting a good shake out mid-route
[Hide Photo] David working his way up through the first bolt on Monkey in the Middle
[Hide Photo] Sometimes while climbing you run the risk of getting too hot and BECOMING A GOD.
[Hide Photo] Shawn mid send
[Hide Photo] Leading Monkey in the Middle. Raining but it was totally dry on the cliff!
[Hide Photo] Giving a good look at the roof above
[Hide Photo] This gives you an idea of how steep the route is. There are portions of steepness interspaced between vertical rest sections.
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