Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Stacy Temple, John Bronaugh - 1992
Page Views: 4,535 total · 35/month
Shared By: James Otey on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


227 Opinions

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Description

Start off on the steeply overhanging (35 degree) line of jugs and pockets, cranking through relatively powerful moves on great holds. after a few bolts, the angle lessens and decent rests can be found. Though there aren't any ledges, there are a couple places where good body positioning will be rewarded with taking nearly all your weight off the forearms, which will undoubtedly be pretty pumped unless you climb 5.13. Efficient climbing, good footwork, and the ability to find rests are the secret to success on this classic line.

Location

30 feet left of 'Geezers go Sport"

Protection

8 Bolts

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This is an awesome, sustained, steep jug haul. Start on very steep wall, climb a couple of bolts worth of vertical, take your rest and climb the rest of the way up an overhanging headwall. Super fun climbing, jugs everywhere you place a hand. Jun 26, 2009
Stefano Prezioso
Denver, CO
Stefano Prezioso   Denver, CO
I believe this is 9 bolts, not 8. Mar 9, 2012
Andrew1986
Knoxville
Andrew1986   Knoxville
Agree 9 bolts to anchors. Came up one short this weekend. Oct 22, 2012
Jeff Edge  
 
Somebody chalked "Wasp at anchors" at the start, but I didn't find any. Although there were a few buzzing around off to the left a little bit, I guess they must've moved. Great route, technical crux seemed to be right at the start Aug 18, 2013
Michael Dom
  5.11a
Michael Dom  
  5.11a
This was just rebolted in October. Use the glue ins and watch for bad rock at the sixth bolt. Good route. Pumpy route, expect major holds throughout. Jan 1, 2016
Amazing climb. Guidebook says 8 bolts but we also clipped 9 to the anchors. Someone put in some nice tick marks that were reassuring when you're getting pumped out at the top. Dec 2, 2017