All Locations > Utah > San Rafael Swell > San Rafael Swell… > Eastern Reef Area… > E Crags (DBC Canyon)
Avg: 3 from 1 vote
Routes in E Crags (DBC Canyon)
|Type:||Trad, 1610 ft, 10 pitches, Grade III|
|FA:||Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var leads) 20th March 2008|
|Page Views:||1,785 total, 15/month|
|Shared By:||USBRIT Ross on Mar 24, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
DescriptionTakes a line between Death by Chocolate and Day of Atonement. A bit of an expedition with fine situations and great views from the summit. Most of the rock is good ,however one or two of the easier pitches are a little flakey.
P1)Enter the groove and at about 140' cam belays. 140'5.5
P2)Continue up the groove passing a pro bolt about 20' above the belay to double anchors at its top. 160' 5.7
P3)Climb 15 feet up to the right to a bolt and fixed biner . Lower off from this about 60' than traverse right to anchors at the start of pitch 4 of Death by Chocolate.
P4) Climb up right to a pro bolt (this has been added as flake seemed unstable for cam placement) above a hollow flake ,up from this to another bolt then right to double anchors (P4 D by C).100'5.8
P5)Do not go up the scoop of D by C traverse up to the right to join a chocolate band of rock passing a bolt at about 130'to double anchors to the right of a small bush. 200' 5.5R
P6)Continue up the slab passing a bolt to double anchors below a groove and crack.200'5.6R.
P7)Climb the groove and continue to double anchors 200' 5.6R.
P8)Straight up and enter slim groove ,step left out of this about 20' below a small roof to double anchors left of the roof.200'5.6R
P9).Continue up the slab to a natural cam belay below some blocks #3.5 and #4 friends.200' 5.6R
P10 Straight up slab left of blocks to the summit groove 150' 5.6R .Register in small cairn.
Descent Go around the corner to the left and along a big ledge then descend a large scoop to the rap anchors at the top of Death By Chocolate. Follow 200' raps to the anchors at the top of the 5.9 pitch 4, then a rap from here reaches the canyon floor.