Type: Sport, 200 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Darren Knezek, March 2008
Page Views: 2,635 total · 20/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Mar 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

21 Opinions

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An exciting, very enjoyable three-pitch route that ascends a quartzite buttress on the north side of Rock Canyon. The route starts on the typically broken and crumbly light-colored rock above the layer of Mineral Fork Tillite, but continues on solid, good quality quartzite for the second and third pitches. In fact, on the third pitch the rock is quite interesting with obviously ancient, well-weathered quartzite with rounded edges interspersed with sections with sharp edges from more recent erosive events.

P1 (5.10a, 70') Starts on the crumbly, shattered, white quartzite with a mildly tricky move past the first bolt and then big jugs on slightly overhanging to not-quite-vertical rock to a ledge at a midpoint anchor (the fifth bolt). The rock looks suspect, but is actually surprisingly solid. Continues past the midpoint anchor through two more bolts on lower-angled terrain to a red-colored hangers-and-rings anchor on a ledge.

P2 (5. 10c?, 60') Start twenty feet right of the top of the first pitch under a sloping roof with a couple of rounded, undercut tiers. The bolts are painted black. Getting off the ground, clipping and getting past the first two bolts is the crux with poor feet, sloping sidepulls, a couple of sucker pockets, and some hidden jugs. However, even after getting above the second bolt it isn't over. The move past the third bolt is also difficult (at least if you are of average height) but not nearly as difficult as the start. After the third bolt continue on solid, quality quartzite to a ledge with a hangers-and-rings anchor.

P3 (5.10a, 60') Head up to the left of the anchors on a thought-provoking, but juggy and solid overhang to the first bolt. Continue on mostly jugs on interesting, solid, reddish quartzite to a point under a roof. The move to get to the bolt just underneath the roof is committing but solid. Continue over the roof and up to another small overhang just before the top. The anchors are just over the top.


P1 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors. There is also a midpoint anchor at bolt 5.
P2 7 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.
P3 9 bolts, hanger-and-ring anchors.


This route starts on the southwest facing part of the large buttress containing Bad Bananas and Super Bowl. Approach the main part of Bad Bananas (below the huge roof) and continue west on a trail below the exposed Mineral Fork Tillite (the greenish-gray-brown rock). After turning the corner head up hill along the base of the tillite and scramble up a short, tillite ramp to the base of the climb.


Three single rope rappels with a 60m rope will get you to the base. You can leave your packs, etc., at the base of the approach ramp since the last rappel can take you below the approach ramp if you choose.


Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
Darren told me he thought the three pitches went at .10a, .10c, and .10a. My partner and I both thought the start of the second pitch was quite a bit harder than .10c (neither of us got it clean), but it's possible we just didn't find the "trick".

Darren originally thought the second pitch start would go at .12 something, but said he and his partner found a heel-hook and pocket that made it much easier. I tried various heel hooks but none of them worked for me.

My partner finally made it to the second bolt and clipped it, and then led the rest of the pitch. I didn't even manage the start clean while following, but now that I know where certain holds are I think I probably will be able to get it clean next time. However, unless I'm really missing something, I think it's harder than .10c (but keep in mind that I'm a weak and pitiful climber). Ask Darren at MountainWorks for the beta. Mar 24, 2008
John Ross
Wasatch Front, UT
John Ross   Wasatch Front, UT
What a fun, challenging, multi-pitch route! The upper two pitches are the best.

P1 - A little loose, but still good climbing.

P2 - There is some excitement getting from the first to the second bolt, especially with all that air beneath you! It took all the power I could muster, but I'm not that strong. The business isn't over though so don't get too pumped! Shake out and look for good edges to be found with some cool moves.

P3 - The exposure is stellar, and the climbing is a blast. The crux is probably just below and getting over the small roof close to the top.

What a kick!!! Mar 24, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
Jeff Jones   Elk Ridge, UT
Stellar. What more is there to say? Everyone should do this.

P1 - Dirty but nothing pulled off. When I go up there next time (and there definitely will be a next time), I will try and reserve some time to do some additional clean up. The opening moves are a little tricky but straightforward easy climbing from there.

P2 - I got the beta from DK but still could not do it the way he said. Kip figured out a way but it involved a crappy match which was pretty hard to do. I would like to get up there again and try a figure a better way or try out the more ways to implement the beta. We might have made the move a little harder than it needed to be but I didn't think it was any harder than .10d (but I am terrible at suggesting ratings).

P3 - Since my endurance is crap right now, I started getting a little desperate at the top where it gets steeper. The exposure is awesome! I found a rest but then realized that I had to move back right to where the bolt was. Big jugs the rest of the way.

One of the great parts about this climb was the belay stations were great! Oct 24, 2008
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
I finally got back and did this cleanly. I still didn't find Darren's mythical heel hook, but the way I managed it did seem mid-to-hard-10-ish (although it required a dynamic move—if I miss, I fall).

However, if you don't know where the holds are (and the key one for me isn't visible from the ground), .10c will seem like a cruel joke. Dec 1, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
Really fun route. Great location and exposure! Ok first pitch, sweet second and third. I DID get a heel hook on the second pitch when clipping the first bolt. The "sucker pockets" (Perin's words) were actually what got me through the crux on the second pitch... Second and third pitches were supremely pumpy! Very cool top out, too.

As a side note, this route for some reason doesn't register with the search function here on the site (doesn't work for me, anyway...). Go ahead, try searching for it! May 8, 2010
Agree with Tristan with his assessment. The pockets that Perin mentions seemed like the most obvious way to go and felt about right for the grade. Plenty of holds for the hands although the feet were a bit less than huge.
Starting off the ledge past bolt 2 on pitch 2 was really annoying for me. The hand-holds on were on the left and the feet were on the right. Really helped out the pump factor. If it had not been for the juggyness of the second half of pitch two, I would've been in trouble.
Pitch 3 was pretty darn incredible. The crux comes right at the end getting to a little roof. Tristan went far left but I tried to go straight up, it was there but not as obvious/juggy as I would've liked. The big exposure really added a sweet touch!
All in all though, a great effort by DK! May 8, 2010
BJB   Texas
This is one of my favorite routes on bad bananas. Even the first pitch was pretty clean. Nothing was loose or sketchy. The start of Pitch 2 was really hard to me, but after getting above it, the rest of the route is mostly jugs up beautiful rock. I really liked this one. Nov 29, 2011
Nich Cloward
American Fork
Nich Cloward   American Fork
I belayed Eric Mercer on the second pitch and watched him do it clean. It was stunning. He said he pulled a very hard match (I tried and couldn't make it happen) to make the move. I had to pull hard with my right hand close to the first bolt after moving my feet a little higher to move my left hand on to the top hold where Eric matched, then move my right hand high right. Very tough. Never found the secret hold and heel hook talked about previously. Thins out a little in the middle of pitch two. Pitch three has a nice little roof to get around. I was hoping, just for the sake of safety and my own sense of security, for an anchor at the bottom of pitch two. It starts just far enough away from the top of pitch one that an anchor would be nice. The belay is on a very nice sized, even large, ledge so it's not necessary, but I could see some bad news if someone lost balance or something. Overall fun. May 20, 2013
Brock Jones
Provo, UT
Brock Jones   Provo, UT
I'm no boulderer (so maybe my opinion is totally inaccurate) but the beginning of p2 felt just like a boulder problem to me. Even after you know all the holds and sequence, it's a burly couple of moves that will test how strong of a climber you actually are.

Don't let that dissuade you though. This is a pretty cool route that's worth doing. Muster up your moxie for that second pitch and get on it! May 25, 2018