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Pangborn

5.9+, Sport, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 59 votes
FA: Michael Strassman & Jackie Carroll
California > Sierra Eastside > Lone Pine Area > Alabama Hills > Alabama Hills N… > Western Wall Area > Loaf

Description

Excellent face climbing with a distinct crux at the 6th bolt. This route is not as sustained as Ranger Ron. The crux is very well protected, but there are sometimes 5.6 moves 10 feet above the last bolt.

Location

Steps off the middle of a boulder, just left of Ranger Ron. See photo

Protection

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains

Use a #1 TCU in a horizontal to plug a strange run-out mid-way up the route

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Jenny Le on Pangborn 5.10a
[Hide Photo] Jenny Le on Pangborn 5.10a
"Pangborn".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Pangborn". Photo by Blitzo.
Jenny Le
[Hide Photo] Jenny Le

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Like Ranger Ron, several of the bolts on this route were under drilled, leaving bolts that protrude from the holes and hangers that do not touch the wall. Mar 24, 2008
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Dunno what folks are thinking when it comes to the terrain on Pangborn compared to Alabama Hills Gang. Pangborn clearly has pretty positive holds throughout the route, even at the crux. The first 35' feet of AHG is certainly tougher; clean slab with crimpy small holes for holds.

Pangborn is a beautiful route but AHG is clearly the tougher route IMO. Jul 28, 2009
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
[Hide Comment] I agree with Dave - AHG is significantly harder. I thought that Ranger Ron might even be harder than Pangborn, since there's more sustained climbing. Oct 19, 2009
BAd
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] I'd say for sure 10a, but not sustained, as others have mentioned. I've been doing a lot of 10a's in the Hills recently, and that "distinct crux" qualifies.

Scott Apr 20, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
[Hide Comment] There may be 11 bolts on this route. Lewis BARC guide states as such and I didn't note otherwise. As for the route, I couldn't agree more that this route is excellent and far easier than the Alabama Hills Gang.

Note height of this crag (42 meter). Bring two ropes! Also a trick that worked very well for us was for both parties to lead each route.

Leader 1 climbs up, anchors Rope A and raps down (cleaning or unclipping gear as they go).
Leader 2 climbs up using Rope B - at anchors joins the two ropes and raps down cleaning gear as they go.

Works great, everyone safe, no passing of the knots, everyone gets the tick........ May 12, 2012
Russ Walling
Redacted Sucks!!
  5.9+
[Hide Comment] Good positive holds all over this thing. Crux is about a move and a half between good edges. May 13, 2012
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] This route has a short, but solid, 5.9 crux, with 5.7 & .8 climbing through the rest of it. Yes, it runs out a bit in a couple spots, but that doesn't increase the grade. The start of AHG has some harder moves off the deck which just barely pushes it to 10a territory (barely), but again, the rest of it is pretty much 5.7 & 8. Both are quite fun and you get excellent mileage. As for grades, I think people should go climb "Really, Really Ridiculously Good Looking " over on Zoo Wall and use that as the measure of an AH 10a, because that is 10a and it's really, really ridiculously good. May 14, 2012
BAd
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Yeah, Jeff, you're right about Zoo Wall. Check out the 10a's on Western Wall, too. Among the best in the Hills.

I still vote 10a for the crux on Pangborn, however. :)- Mar 17, 2014
[Hide Comment] This is more like 125 maybe 130 feet long, you can climb and lower easily with an 80m rope, no need for two ropes to get down. Pretty good if there are people in your group who want to top rope as well, rope drag isn't even very bad. Dec 3, 2018