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Routes in The Loaf

Alabama Hills Gang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loaf Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pangborn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paulette's Shortcut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 140 ft
FA: Michael Strassman & Jackie Carroll
Page Views: 3,424 total, 29/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Excellent face climbing with a distinct crux at the 6th bolt. This route is not as sustained as Ranger Ron. The crux is very well protected, but there are sometimes 5.6 moves 10 feet above the last bolt.

Location

Steps off the middle of a boulder, just left of Ranger Ron. See photo

Protection

10 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains

Use a #1 TCU in a horizontal to plug a strange run-out mid-way up the route

Photos

BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
Yeah, Jeff, you're right about Zoo Wall. Check out the 10a's on Western Wall, too. Among the best in the Hills.

I still vote 10a for the crux on Pangborn, however. :)- Mar 17, 2014
Jeff Mahoney
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
Jeff Mahoney   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.9
This route has a short, but solid, 5.9 crux, with 5.7 & .8 climbing through the rest of it. Yes, it runs out a bit in a couple spots, but that doesn't increase the grade. The start of AHG has some harder moves off the deck which just barely pushes it to 10a territory (barely), but again, the rest of it is pretty much 5.7 & 8. Both are quite fun and you get excellent mileage. As for grades, I think people should go climb "Really, Really Ridiculously Good Looking " over on Zoo Wall and use that as the measure of an AH 10a, because that is 10a and it's really, really ridiculously good. May 14, 2012
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.9+
Good positive holds all over this thing. Crux is about a move and a half between good edges. May 13, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
There may be 11 bolts on this route. Lewis BARC guide states as such and I didn't note otherwise. As for the route, I couldn't agree more that this route is excellent and far easier than the Alabama Hills Gang.

Note height of this crag (42 meter). Bring two ropes! Also a trick that worked very well for us was for both parties to lead each route.

Leader 1 climbs up, anchors Rope A and raps down (cleaning or unclipping gear as they go).
Leader 2 climbs up using Rope B - at anchors joins the two ropes and raps down cleaning gear as they go.

Works great, everyone safe, no passing of the knots, everyone gets the tick........ May 12, 2012
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
I'd say for sure 10a, but not sustained, as others have mentioned. I've been doing a lot of 10a's in the Hills recently, and that "distinct crux" qualifies.

Scott Apr 20, 2012
Tom Fralich
Fort Collins, CO
Tom Fralich   Fort Collins, CO
I agree with Dave - AHG is significantly harder. I thought that Ranger Ron might even be harder than Pangborn, since there's more sustained climbing. Oct 19, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.9+
Dunno what folks are thinking when it comes to the terrain on Pangborn compared to Alabama Hills Gang. Pangborn clearly has pretty positive holds throughout the route, even at the crux. The first 35' feet of AHG is certainly tougher; clean slab with crimpy small holes for holds.

Pangborn is a beautiful route but AHG is clearly the tougher route IMO. Jul 28, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
 
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
 
Like Ranger Ron, several of the bolts on this route were under drilled, leaving bolts that protrude from the holes and hangers that do not touch the wall. Mar 24, 2008