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Routes in The Loaf

Alabama Hills Gang S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Loaf Arete T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Pangborn S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Paulette's Shortcut S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ranger Ron S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Strassman, Carroll, Curtis, & Kates
Page Views: 3,225 total, 27/month
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Mar 23, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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24 Opinions

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Awesome, high angle face climbing on edges. Sustained, exposed, and well-protected...what more could you ask for?

There is a slabby crux around the 10th bolt (maybe 5.8). Otherwise the route is sustained 5.7 with a variety of different cruxes.


Start in a flaired crack/gully that goes up and right. Step up and left onto the face and climb through two small overhangs. The upper part of the route climbs just left of an obvious, pale water streak. See photo


14 bolts, 2 bolt anchor with rappel chains.


Just did this again today. We've always found the original start kind of awkward and weird and not especially enjoyable. A better option is to clip the first two bolts on Pangborn--long sling on the 2nd--then traverse a little to pick up the Ranger line. Put a long sling on the first bolt you encounter--a little easy run-out up the corner--then pull up onto the big ramp below the overlap. Gun for the top. So fun. Jun 13, 2016
Will H.
Will H.  
Only saw one iffy bolt, the rest seemed solid for what it's worth. Mar 24, 2016
  5.8 PG13
  5.8 PG13
Felt like 5.8 to me. My short arms had a tough (and scary) time reaching the bolt after shimmy-ing up the ramp, especially with the last bolt ~10' down (felt like 20'). After that, I felt it was moderately run out (10-15' spacing) and was a mental battle for me. As mentioned, route finding became an issue up near bolts 8 (or 9 or 10). Jul 30, 2014
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Very enjoyable climbing with minor crux 3/4 way up the wall. Didn't seem particularly more/less difficult than the same area of Pangborn. Similar climbing, perhaps even appearing slightly more difficult than Pangborn as its more sustained.

Mussy hook anchors. Requires 2 ropes, see comments on other routes for two leader rope trick. May 12, 2012
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
Not as good as I expected, seemed a bit hard for 5.8. It was also cold and windy, Belaying at the top was freezing, and the wind swung our ropes all over the place. Feb 27, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
Hmmmm...with the likes of Marty Lewis and Raliegh Collins rating this climb at 5.8, I'll add to that concensus. If you're uncertain on the overall feel of the route, then try the direct start instead of going up the ramp to the right. Harder than 5.8 from that point. May 14, 2008
Bruce Willey
Bishop, CA
Bruce Willey   Bishop, CA
Yeah the bolt job is pretty shoddy. Lots of spinners add to the spice. And sometimes the bolts don't seem in the right place making the route finding important. Otherwise a fine route. Though I was climbing with one arm I'd still say drop the + in the 7 and just go ahead and call it a 5.8. Apr 28, 2008
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
Nearly every bolt on this route was under drilled. As such, many of the 3/8" Rawls protrude from their holes and have space between the hanger and the rock (up to 1/8"). Mar 24, 2008