PRINT: Rock Climb Big Sky, Red Rocks

Big Sky

5.7 R, Trad, 1000 ft (303 m), 7 pitches, Grade III,

Avg: 2.4 from 9 votes
FA: Larry DeAngelo and Matt Clarke, 2005
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (14) First Cree… > First Creek Slabs

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

The route was climbed on a 70m rope, so belay locations may vary.

P1-Climb up the arete of the right facing corner and pull through a roof.

P2-Follow a right angling crack to the gully on the right.

P3-Climb a crack on the buttress on the right and build a hanging belay.

P4-Continue up the crack and another hanging belay at the top of the crack.

P5-From the top of the crack work out and left to get some gear and then run it out considerably on easy terrain. Belay at tree.

P6-Continue straight up to a clean handcrack.

P7-Climb the ridgeline on the left. On the first ascent the 4th class gully straight up was climbed. It was extemely loose and dangerous.

Location

This route lies between Sunset Slabs and Romanian Rib. Locate a right facing corner capped with a roof.
Follow the First Creek Slabs descent.

Protection

Gear to 3". No fixed anchors or bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hanging belay at the top of P4

Overview of the route.

Looking back after the descent.

Last pitch

We had a couple of friends watching us on the first pitch!

Pitch 1.

The handcrack on pitch 6.

The runout slab on pitch 5.

Cool plates and crack on pitch 4. Some small cams may be useful here.

Pitch 3 crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karl K
Phoenix, AZ

5.7 R

This climb is not correctly described or drawn in the Handren Guide.
As stated here - on the second pitch continue all the way along the right leaning crack into the gully. Do NOT climb above this crack - there is virtually no way to get over anywhere else.
Also - the Handren guide led us to join up with Romanian Rib for the last 2 pitches. In order to get there, it required a very ugly crawl through loose rock and vegetation. The description here looks like it followed a more natural line up the rib/face to the left. Better? Probably.
Also - there were a lot of loose and fragile holds on this climb. Particularly the runout slab above the crack/water runnel.
Be careful. Mar 20, 2011

Josh Jane
Las Vegas, NV

really enjoyed this route. Felt very comfortable and ran things out quite a bit...quite a bit. We went in 4 pitches w/ a lil' simul-ing, basically took the biggest, comfiest ledges we could find. Good beta on following the trough to get to the next rib and we did meet up w/ Romanian Rib's last pitch as drawn in the book and it was a dirty crawl to get there but not bad.

As I noted on Romanian Rib's page, I would avoid the rap slings in the descent trough that are wrapped around the natural formation. They're in really bad shape and it's hardly a down climb to the tree on the side w/ fresh slings that won't be right in the drainage path of water and debris. The actual down climb to the 3rd set of bolts is not bad at all but the cord and sling look a lil' old as well. Nice to add some freshies if yer passin' through. Mar 14, 2013

David Carrier
Vancouver, WA

5.7 R

I agree with the other comments- it's unnecessary and unpleasant to climb over to Romanian rib buttress, and it's easy to get off route on this climb and reach a dead end. Here are our notes:
P1- follow the arete, pull over the roof, then follow the crack all the way into the alcove and belay here. 200 ft.
P2- follow the angling crack to the right around the corner and into the brushy gully. Set up a belay high up in the gully on a table-size ledge.
P3- climb the runout slab up the center of the gully to the prominent crack. No pro here until you reach the crack. Follow the crack to a narrow ledge and set up a hanging belay. 200 ft.
P4- traverse right about 25 ft. to a large crack, and follow this up to a big tree in a brushy gully and belay here.
P5- look above you for an arm-size evergreen tree growing out of a hand crack. Head for this hand crack and follow it all the way up the buttress, building a belay before the crack narrows and disappears.
P6- follow the runout rib all the way to the summit. Keep an eye out for pro placements- there aren't many, but the climbing is easy and fun. Nov 22, 2020