Avg: 2.5 from 6 votes
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|FA:||Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, 1985|
|Page Views:||677 total · 5/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Olszewski on Mar 22, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Issue: Rebolting Complete! Details
CA State Parks officially reopened Big Rock to public access April 28th, 2018. After months of effort 53 anchors and 232 bolts have been upgraded to 1/2" X 2.75" stainless steel Powers 5-piece bolts and rings.
This is the bolt line furthest to the right. It has two very nice cruxes. The first is a power balance move right off the deck. This is a sweet move that can be approached from a couple different angles, depending on your height. It is protected by the first bolt which is clipped before starting up. A mix of good edges and delicate smears takes one past the second bolt to the upper crux, protected by the third and final bolt. Again, height and reach determine the best line and this one is all about smearing. Once above this second crux, the wall lays down for some easy climbing to the chains. But the fun isn't over; this upper half of the climb is like an easy version of Let it Bleed. When you're 20' above your last pro and climbing with no actual holds you don't tend to think about how easy the climbing is. ;-) The Sundeck sees very few ascents but this one should not be missed!