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Routes in The Sundeck

Mickey Mantle T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sun King T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sunny Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sunshine Daydream T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Top Rope TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, 1985
Page Views: 581 total, 5/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.

Details

Description

This is the bolt line furthest to the right. It has two very nice cruxes. The first is a power balance move right off the deck. This is a sweet move that can be approached from a couple different angles, depending on your height. It is protected by the first bolt which is clipped before starting up. A mix of good edges and delicate smears takes one past the second bolt to the upper crux, protected by the third and final bolt. Again, height and reach determine the best line and this one is all about smearing. Once above this second crux, the wall lays down for some easy climbing to the chains. But the fun isn't over; this upper half of the climb is like an easy version of Let it Bleed. When you're 20' above your last pro and climbing with no actual holds you don't tend to think about how easy the climbing is. ;-) The Sundeck sees very few ascents but this one should not be missed!

Location

Last line on the right, before the deck slopes up to the right.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
  5.10b
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
  5.10b
This route was put up in 1985/1986 by Richard Jensen and Mark Smith, of Riverside Quarry fame. They also put up "Wings of Steel" A4/A5 on El Capitan, Yosemite Valley. Dec 18, 2009