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The Monkey

5.8+, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 3.4 from 53 votes
FA: Al Romano, Bob Kirbach & Arni Jr.
Vermont > 2. Central Vermont > Deer Leap > Main wall
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Description

Climb up to the obvious overlap on the left side of the cliff and follow it left, traversing to a crack on its left. Climb the overhang and follow the path of least resistance to the top.

Location

Starts below the right end of a small roof at a finger crack, about 30' from the left side of the cliff.

Protection

Standard rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Zoe chalking up on a beautiful November day
[Hide Photo] Zoe chalking up on a beautiful November day
At the Anchor for the Monkey
[Hide Photo] At the Anchor for the Monkey
Jamie Trayer follows the last rays of the sun across the Monkey traverse. Photo: Ian Kirk
[Hide Photo] Jamie Trayer follows the last rays of the sun across the Monkey traverse. Photo: Ian Kirk
Dave Redden halfway up The Monkey.
[Hide Photo] Dave Redden halfway up The Monkey.
A good view of lower Monkey with master Dave making the moves.
[Hide Photo] A good view of lower Monkey with master Dave making the moves.
Larry tops out on Monkey a bit incredulously, but we knew he had it!<br>
[Hide Photo] Larry tops out on Monkey a bit incredulously, but we knew he had it!
Just over the overlap
[Hide Photo] Just over the overlap

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Eli Kramer
Saratoga Springs, NY
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Another great route. I found it to be pumpy but not as technical as the Center Crack. Great hands through the traverse and good feet for most of it. Pulling the roof is the crux, but the unprotected move off the ground is certainly a 5.8 move. Oct 22, 2009