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Routes in The Beach

Body Surfin' TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlie and the Choss Factory T,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Goofy Foot TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hawaii 5-O T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Break T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Scarface TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spin Drift TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wave, The T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: TR, 60 ft
FA: ??
Page Views: 1,953 total · 15/month
Shared By: EricD on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Description

This route is fun. The start (a slabby ledge) and finish (a bit past vertical) are the toughest parts, but the holds are great and reminiscent of some of the granite boulders around Bishop, CA. Just follow the big holds.

Location

The start is just left of the big chimney. It begins with a ledge about 4 feet high that leads to a small right-facing dihedral.

Protection

Top rope or a rack with a wide range of gear. Two bolts on top serve as an anchor.

Photos

Scott Gilliam
Raleigh, NC
 
Scott Gilliam   Raleigh, NC
 
A nice 5.8-ish variation keeps to the right and finishes on the steeper crack to the right of the regular finish with good gear and fun moves. Feb 5, 2009
George Heib
  5.7
George Heib  
  5.7
Great top rope route or a nice chicken head sling fest. Really 5.6ish until the last crack. Great fun moves at the top of this one. Sep 30, 2010
Joshua McDaniel
Johnson City, TN
Joshua McDaniel   Johnson City, TN
A really fun climb, it protects well and is a nice route when working your way up through the trad grades. Dec 5, 2011
Mike Marsh
Columbia
  5.7
Mike Marsh   Columbia
  5.7
The crux crack at the top made me stop and think and hunt -- an interesting couple of moves to keep it 5.7-ish. Also, interesting 5.6-ish face climbing leading up to the large ledge. Would rate it higher save for this ledge which is immediately under the crux. Sep 21, 2014
Chris Funk
  5.7 PG13
Chris Funk  
  5.7 PG13
Nice 5.8. Be sure to bring a rope tarp. This area is notorious for water seeping out of the stone and soaking ropes. makes for great facsimile "pee pants" on a fast rap.
When throwing down rope, be sure to miss the dogwood below... it never fails. Feb 4, 2016
Shane Rosanbalm  
  5.7
The horizontal features on this route are very silty/sandy compared to other Pilot routes. When pawing about on horizontal features, try not to *slide* your hand or you might end up with an eye full of dirt.

The bottom half is usually climbed to the right (follow the chicken heads), but following the crack to the left is also a fun variation and still on grade. Aug 6, 2018

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