Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Dan McQuade, January 1993
Page Views: 15,597 total · 115/month
Shared By: Michael Kimm on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

34 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Perhaps the finest sport climb in Red Rock. Two bolts of 5.9 jugginess lead to the first of many powerful boulder problems. Enjoy the variety (and the mandetory all points off dyno) and grimace through the crimpers on this beautiful classic!


Deepest route on the left side of the corridor, next to Sunsplash (5.13b).


Chain draws to chains.


Ben Lepesant
Innsbruck, AT
Ben Lepesant   Innsbruck, AT
I agree with the above, this climb is worldclass. If you ever work a 13b, let it be this one. Mar 24, 2009
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
I agree with ya Ben. I worked this thing one day and hung like 3 times my first go. This season I will work the crap out of it. WORLDCLASS!!!!! Oct 22, 2010
Brent Butcher
Brent Butcher  
A classic 13! A fun start with very cool rock features. For me there were 2 cruxes. One near the beginning with a pinky jam (I believe around the 4th bolt) and the last was the dyno (make sure to catch the edge). Nov 18, 2010
definitely world class, one of the hardest moves is right at the beginning with a one finger crack that hurts like hell! great place to take pics Nov 29, 2012
Jacob Fishman
Phoenix, AZ
Jacob Fishman   Phoenix, AZ
When does this beast get sun? Dec 25, 2013
It gets almost no sun. Maybe 30 minutes when the sun is directly above it. Dec 25, 2013
Flagstaff, Az
Nob0dy   Flagstaff, Az
One of my favorite routes ever, although the crux is really awkward and hurts a little bit. Worth it though. Jan 28, 2014
World fucking class. Stout rig Mar 29, 2014
Victoria, BC
G McG   Victoria, BC
It appears the undercling just before the dyno has been broken off. Doesn't seem any harder, just different. I always thought it felt pretty solid...makes me wonder if someone climbed it before it was dry :/ Feb 24, 2015
Height and a long reach will benefit climbers on this route. Feb 16, 2017
Ethan Smalley
Asheville, North Carolina
Ethan Smalley   Asheville, North Carolina
Currently (4/27/18) there is a bird nest with four eggs in the hueco that you clip the second bolt from. The parent birds are also often in the hueco. I would avoid climbing this route due to the potential to harm the eggs or be harmed by the adult birds. Apr 27, 2018