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Routes in Madness Buttress

Cleveland Steamer T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Territory of the Mad T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Yogini T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: James and Franziska Garrett 3/98
Page Views: 52 total · 0/month
Shared By: grk10vq on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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The Business

P1: About 15 feet up on the arete is a bolt. Climb up and clip this with a long runner, head left along the ramp over calm terrain towards the base of the arch. Clip an antique hanger, place a nut or two, and small cam. Pitch one can end at a nice set of chains about 50 feet up or can continue on to the base of the arch where you'll need to build a shaky anchor (60m) or you can continue up through the arch to more chains (70m). (.8)

P2: Continues left towards the beginning of the arch. Pull a bulge, place a nut, and encounter a stud with a nut sans hanger, (you can slide a stopper around this) sink another piece and proceed to the base of the arch. Get your hands in its depths and follow the curving crack up and right placing some hand size pieces (long slings very helpful). Follow this to a nice two bolt anchor w/ chains. (.8)

P3: (crux) Head straight up and over a devious and strenuous bulge into some savory and delicate face climbing. End up at another comfortable anchor on the right side of the wall. All bolts. (.10c/d)

Descent: Rap the route from top anchors on p3. 60m rap in three. 70m rap in two. A 70m makes it from top chains to first set of chains perfectly.

Where the hell is this thing?

This route starts on the right side base of the Madness Buttress. The climb is distinguished by a very large, left to right, curving arch. From the road, scramble straight up to a faint and shallow gully, The climb begins in the gully and starts up the ramp following the path of least resistance.

Protecting your neck

QD's, long slings, single set of camalots .4 to #3 and small to medium stoppers.


Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
1 star for the wandering loose lower section. The arching crack is awkward, lots of sharp deposits in there that will eat your skin. Good pro the whole way. P3 redeems the route with a very devious bulge. Too bad it's so short... Jun 15, 2009
that hangerless 3/8" stud was placed during the TOTM ascent. If I recall correctly, it wasn't cooperating well with the burned up bits and hard ibex rock....instead of chopping it, I tied it off and decided it wasn't really that important where it was....I have meant to clean it up, but actually think it is probaby OK (pretty bomber!) so apathetically have left it there. Anyway, probably a lame explanation, but you asked.... Apr 1, 2008
that clears up a few things, all but one of the bolts are just fine, there is one stud that has a nut and no hanger. this bolt is on the line that follows the route outlined in the guide book for TOTM. so if you were to stay low instead of starting QOI and head left, there is a/or was a bolt about 18 feet below/right of the start of the arch. this is the only bolt in question-long stud with only a nut? but otherwise, everything is great. Mar 22, 2008
Hi grk,
Sorry for the confusion! From the top of the 1st pitch of Territory Of The Mad (without the II) from that ledge, if one goes straight up following some bolts and then traverses right to a prominent crack to the P2 chains, that is Question of Insanity, 5.10a 1 pitch. To the right of that is Psychosis, 5.11b with a very bouldery crux. This has 4 bolts on it. Then further to the right, apparently is Cleveland Steamer, which I thought was independent of the other three lines. QOI and P then, really are P2 variations of TOTM. Do the bolts need some maintainence or were they OK?
Thanks! Mar 21, 2008
i followed the description and picture from the ibex route guide. the first bolt on the arete is also the first bolt for cleveland steamer. i combined p1 and p2 as a whole, starting from the ground and climbing up and left to and through the arch to the p2 chains. long runners on all gear/bolts left no considerable drag. the missing stud is easily backed up about a foot higher with a nut placement. the guide says to climb to the base of the arch, only a wavy and deep crack makes it a bit difficult to set a suitable belay/anchor. the picture in the guide shows p3 ending on the arete proper, only the bolts looked too new and this coincided with the Cleveland Steamer. a direct route through the middle of these two climbs (CS & TOTM) exists as well. Mar 21, 2008