Territory of the Mad
Avg: 2 from 3 votes
|Type:||Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||James and Franziska Garrett 3/98|
|Page Views:||52 total · 0/month|
|Shared By:||grk10vq on Mar 21, 2008|
|Admins:||Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq|
P1: About 15 feet up on the arete is a bolt. Climb up and clip this with a long runner, head left along the ramp over calm terrain towards the base of the arch. Clip an antique hanger, place a nut or two, and small cam. Pitch one can end at a nice set of chains about 50 feet up or can continue on to the base of the arch where you'll need to build a shaky anchor (60m) or you can continue up through the arch to more chains (70m). (.8)
P2: Continues left towards the beginning of the arch. Pull a bulge, place a nut, and encounter a stud with a nut sans hanger, (you can slide a stopper around this) sink another piece and proceed to the base of the arch. Get your hands in its depths and follow the curving crack up and right placing some hand size pieces (long slings very helpful). Follow this to a nice two bolt anchor w/ chains. (.8)
P3: (crux) Head straight up and over a devious and strenuous bulge into some savory and delicate face climbing. End up at another comfortable anchor on the right side of the wall. All bolts. (.10c/d)
Descent: Rap the route from top anchors on p3. 60m rap in three. 70m rap in two. A 70m makes it from top chains to first set of chains perfectly.
Where the hell is this thing?
This route starts on the right side base of the Madness Buttress. The climb is distinguished by a very large, left to right, curving arch. From the road, scramble straight up to a faint and shallow gully, The climb begins in the gully and starts up the ramp following the path of least resistance.