Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hans Peter Eiselnde, Hans Kammerlander
Page Views: 215 total · 2/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

You & This Route

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The first moves are the hardest.On the approach, walk upwards past the Messner. The first pitch trends a little leftwards. Go over a roof (bouldery crux 5.10(+)) then traverse left and climb to an obvious belay on threads.
The other pitches go up a not-so-obvious pillar. There are no other features to describe where to go. On the last pitch, which starts from a ledge, move right up a groove then left to the final ledge below the summit.
No pitons or bolts, can be protected adequately with gear. There are quite a few threads.  Use double ropes.


On the north face of the 2. sella tower.
The start is hard to spot. The first moves lead over a roof 30 feet right of a dihedral that is the start of the Messner route.
Descent: Follow the trail towards the Piz Ciavazes South face, with some down climbing. The last 90 feet are steep (optional rappel).


Take lots of slings, many small cams and a few larger ones.
There are no pins or bolts on the route.


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