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Routes in Second Sella Tower

Fata Morgana T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Glueck Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Kostner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Messner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
North West Arete - Kasnapoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rechter Riss (Right Crack) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Second Sella Tower – North West Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
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Type: Trad, Alpine, 600 ft, 6 pitches, Grade II
FA: Hans Peter Eiselnde, Hans Kammerlander
Page Views: 151 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Lepesant on Mar 21, 2008
Admins: Tim Wolfe, Shawn Heath

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Description [Suggest Change]

The first moves are the hardest.On the approach, walk upwards past the Messner. The first pitch trends a little leftwards. Go over a roof (bouldery crux 5.10(+)) then traverse left and climb to an obvious belay on threads.
The other pitches go up a not-so-obvious pillar. There are no other features to describe where to go. On the last pitch, which starts from a ledge, move right up a groove then left to the final ledge below the summit.
No pitons or bolts, can be protected adequately with gear. There are quite a few threads.  Use double ropes.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the north face of the 2. sella tower.
The start is hard to spot. The first moves lead over a roof 30 feet right of a dihedral that is the start of the Messner route.
Descent: Follow the trail towards the Piz Ciavazes South face, with some down climbing. The last 90 feet are steep (optional rappel).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Take lots of slings, many small cams and a few larger ones.
There are no pins or bolts on the route.

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