PRINT: Rock Climb Chomping the Bit, WM: Cliff Drive

Chomping the Bit

5.10a, Sport, 30 ft (9 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 43 votes
FA: unknown
Missouri > WM: Cliff Drive > Overhang

Description

Start right of the crack and head up on face holds to the arete/dihedral.

A little chossy left around the corner after the 3rd bolt.

Would probably be a 5.9 with higher stars if the anchor wasn't shit.

Location

This is the leftmost bolted line under the Overhang. It ends only partway up the wall.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Travis in the crux of Chomping the Bit.

Solo aid practice.

Steve low on Chomping the Bit.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO

5.10a

A key hold on the left variation at the top, much to the amusement of some, has broken off. Aug 2, 2008

Erik Pohlman
Westminster, CO

5.10a

As of 10-30-08, the old rusty aid bolt is no longer on the route. No more aiding through the crux. That's ok, though, because now with the fixed draws, you can lower off the 3rd bolt if you can't pull through. Oct 30, 2008

trisgo
Omaha, NE (at the moment)

I picked this route to practice some clean aid on and found it to be a great route. The crack that runs along the left side is solid, takes pro really nicely, and leads right to the anchors at the top. Apr 1, 2013

Andrew Ellis
Taos, NM

5.10b

Try to follow the bolt line to spice it up a bit more! I feel it noticeably ups the difficulty compared to the beta most folks use. Apr 16, 2017

Jesse Star

clipping the anchors was the most challenging part of the route with the available footing and polished stone Sep 6, 2018

Aidan Lee
Kansas City

Definitely one of the worst 10s the state has to offer. I honestly think it is a 5.9, without the terrible anchor. I almost took a groundfall from the anchors when I was a gumby. I'd honestly recommend continuing onto Malarious for anchor. Dec 7, 2021