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High Anxiety

5.10 PG13, Trad, 650 ft (197 m), 6 pitches, Grade III,  Avg: 2 from 9 votes
FA: The Uriostes
Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > (11) Juniper Ca… > Brownstone Wall
Warning Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. DetailsDrop down

Description

This route ascends the obvious dihedral about 150' to the right of Nightcrawler. The climbing is fun and varied, but the last two pitches are best avoided due to the deteriorating quality of the rock.

Location

Start 150' right of Nightcrawler on an easy slab below an obvious roof about 200' up. The best option for descent is to rappel Pro Choice, accessed from near the top of the 5th pitch. Bring two ropes. Otherwise, go to the top, then head south and west to the Gunsight.

Protection

Gear to 4" is fine, extra small and medium stuff. Some pro bolts and one bolted anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] John forgot to mention that we replaced the 30-year-old bolts yesterday. There are 2 pro bolts on the 2nd, a bolted anchor top of the 2nd, and 2 pro bolts on the 3rd. Mar 20, 2008
J. Thompson
denver, co
[Hide Comment] I think John ment to say rappell "Pro choice" as Pro life is basically a 1 pitch variation to pro choice. Mar 27, 2008
Jon OBrien
Nevada
  5.10
[Hide Comment] thanks for doing work up there fellas, hit brownstone for the first time yesterday, beautiful routes May 10, 2010
-robin-
  5.10
[Hide Comment] A party began climbing Nightcrawler just as we arrived, and being that I refuse to wait to climb one route when there are so many others around, we got on this. It is two 80m pitches of real climbing, 5.6/7 to a 5.10/9, if you follow the ramp out left on the upper part, I followed the corner through crappy rock, and awkward moves, then 80-100m or wandering, loose 4-5th class to the top. Not really worth the time, the descent is long, the quality of the climbing low, pick a different route. Perhaps next time I'll be more patient. Nov 6, 2012
Sarah-Min Donahue
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10 PG13
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was fun and challenging if your looking to do something new on brownstone wall. Pitch 5 description; climb about 15- 20 feet off the belay then traverse left through a small shallow roof with small holds. Place a good nut, battle or make friends with the scrub oak bush, then continue up a low angle chimney to interesting and varied crack climbing. Finish on a semi hanging bolted anchor out right. We wrapped down senior dimensions with a 70m. To do that traverse straight right, "kinda sketchy" to find the chain anchors. The intermediate wrap station we reached did not have rings on it and we had to leave 2 biners. Dec 21, 2020
jonathan howland
San Francisco
 
[Hide Comment] Posting a note b/c I thought HA both better and harder than others here indicate.
Props to the Uriostes!
We did five pitches, incl. the direct start variation, and rapped Pro Choice.
Part of the charm is lack of beta – incl. errors in the guide and a scant description here. Oct 5, 2021