[Hide Comment] This is a fun climb, but sustained and steep, so 5.8 leaders should proceed with caution. Pro is good for most of the way, but not great up high. The roof mentioned near the top of the route is small, but bulgy and awkward. I took a 30 foot whipper from this move, and saw another fellow fall 20 feet a week later on the same move. Careful here! Jun 20, 2008

[Hide Comment] If I remember correctly, the gear near the roof move is kind of thin, a blue Alien maybe? Did you pull gear when you fell? Jun 20, 2008

[Hide Comment] RIP Mike Strassman, never had the pleasure of meeting him but thanks for all the great routes. Jun 20, 2008

[Hide Comment] Yes, in fact I pulled a blue alien! First piece I've ever pulled... Stopper below that held. Jun 25, 2008

[Hide Comment] BITD, the comment that "Awkward for its grade - and I found the pro to be non-trivial as well. A newer 5.xx leader would be well tested on this route. " pretty much described all the routes on the Troll Wall.

Looking at the profusion of bolts here these days, it seems pretty clear that some of the old horror fests have become enjoyable climbs. Feb 9, 2009

[Hide Comment] Geir or Scott could probably correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe bolts were added only to the belays? Not that this didn't make some of the scary climbs far less so (and I'm sure Paul has some stories), but the preceding comment kind of makes it sound like Scott added a bunch of bolts to the actual climbing part of the existing trad lines.

Then a bunch of entirely new lines went up as sport or mixed routes. Feb 9, 2009

[Hide Comment] I didn't mean to imply that old trad routes were being retro'd. Or that the wall was a grid fest.

I meant that I imagined there were now some steep routes on hard rock that protected well without having to fiddle all day with odd ball gear.

FWIW - various sources have assured me that none of the routes in Steiger's guide have had any bolts added.

That said, my recollection of the troll is that there were a number of lines that wandered and crossed and were never written up or properly described. So it's possible there are now bolts to clip where once it was spicy gear. And personally, if that's the case, hallelujah. Feb 16, 2009

[Hide Comment] Pretty tough, lot's of fun, tricky gear. Aug 24, 2010

[Hide Comment] This climb (climbing, protection, and gear stances) is far more awkward than other moderates (Tao of Choy, Slot, ODD). May 5, 2018

[Hide Comment] I believe I was quoted as saying “what a awkward mess of shit”
Definitely a good climb just heads up
I feel like it’s a good representation of many other climbs here more then vertical leaning crack systems through roofs.
Great way to become the gnar trad climber you have always wanted to be
Not the warm up I wanted Jul 6, 2019

[Hide Comment] My friend found a hidden gear placement to tame the crux. To the right, under the crux roof-bulge, there is a good placement for a BD 0.2 cam. The placement is blind, but if you slot it into the horizontal from right-to-left until it seats, it's pretty bomber. Dec 5, 2021