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Routes in Island Wall

Ashtar Roof TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bootleg Crack 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V-easy 3 PG13
Contest Special TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Entertainer, The TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Five Niner V1-2 5
Hugs and Pinches V1 5
In the Picture V4 6B
Island Crack TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b V-easy 3
Middle of the Road Madness V7 7A+
Over-exposed V5 6C R
Teflon V4-5 6B+
Type: TR, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,002 total, 9/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 18, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Above the main wall of the Island is a headwall with two lieback cracks coming together at a steep roof. Following the right crack, make cool lieback and stemming moves to gain the roof, which is surmounted via large holds. Like the name suggests, this is an entertaining (albeit short) line. The left crack offers an easier approach to the roof. Because of the very poor landing on a sloping slab of rock, which drops off towards the top of the Island's 20-foot main wall, this is most safely done as a toprope.

Protection

toprope with gear and long slings

Photos

Jeff Botimer  
 
Top roped and climbed as a continuation of five niner. Dec 23, 2013
The Ruin-er
CA
 
The Ruin-er   CA
 
I did island crack into the entertainer as a small trad lead w/ some new to trad climbers, its fun practice for budding trad climbers. passive pro and single cams .5 to 2 Apr 14, 2012
Chris D
the couch
 
Chris D   the couch
 
We did this a number of ways today, all with a spotter standing on the steep rock landing. It would be a long fall if you popped then tumbled down the landing to fall of the face below (the ramp leading to this route is at the top of Island Crack).

Anyway, you can climb the right crack as a lieback, lieback-traverse across the top of the flake, then finger-jam down the left crack. Or you can do it the other way! Awesome. Never even went for the roof and had a blast. Probably mostly 5.7 and 5.8 moves below the roof, but pumpy and a lot of fun. Jan 10, 2010