Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Turtle Dome

Gold V0 4
Green V0- 4-
Problem A V0 4
Problem B V1 5
Problem B - Alternative Start V4 6B PG13
Turtle Dome Crack V1 5
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,380 total, 37/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 18, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


19 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A Rubidoux semi-classic! Made famous for its inclusion in one of John Long's old instructional videos (an interesting sequence appeared in the film showing hand jamming technique, somehow shot from within or from the other side of the boulder). This problem is a must-do, and may also be tried as a difficult lieback (rated B1 in the Craig Fry guide). Done the standard way, tight hands lead to one or two perfect jams and then the crack becomes wider than you'd like far too quickly. Most people opt to lieback to the top once it gets wide, although fists and offwidth techniques will also get you there.

Protection

crash pad and spotters, or toprope with 4.5" cam
nathanael
Riverside, CA
  V1
nathanael   Riverside, CA
  V1
as soon as you can get a solid foot in, you're home free Feb 7, 2016