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Breach

5.8 PG13, Trad, 30 ft (9 m),  Avg: 2.3 from 38 votes
FA: unknown
Arkansas > North-Central A… > Horseshoe Canyo… > Titanic Boulder

Description

Good jams to the base of the roof. You can pull the roof using the loose plates, but it seems better to traverse to one side or the other and clip bolt anchors. The good part of the climb is the crack.

Location

This is the crack splitting the uphill side of the boulder.

Protection

Gear to #3 or #4 Camalot. If traversing to anchors, watch for the swing if you come off. The PG is more for the topout, though.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Roof conquered
[Hide Photo] Roof conquered
hitting the roof
[Hide Photo] hitting the roof
starting the breach
[Hide Photo] starting the breach
up the breach
[Hide Photo] up the breach
great route for starting out with great start.
[Hide Photo] great route for starting out with great start.
Some jamming on Breach
[Hide Photo] Some jamming on Breach

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Agjohns
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route, but needs anchors below the roof If you decided to top it out beware, most all of the roof sounds hollow. Sep 2, 2013
Matt Looby
Cincinnati, OH
  5.8
[Hide Comment] There is now a bolted anchor below the roof and this route is called 5.8 to these anchors. Oct 3, 2015
Mike W.
Draper, UT
  5.8
[Hide Comment] Don't need anything bigger than a #2. Feb 10, 2016
Dan Nix
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] Fun route if you lower before the roof. I don't know why it gets a PG13 rating. Seemed safe to me. Oct 1, 2018