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Routes in Upper Tier

Armed and Dangerous TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Babies on Fire T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Green Dihedral T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Left Chimney T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Little Dihedral T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Peace in Mississippi S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Right Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rocky Horror TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Romper Room T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sardonic Lady, The T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Sierra Club RCS Railing Route Right T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sierra Club RCS Railing route Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stonewall Squeeze T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Strictly Vegetarian TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: TR
FA: Karl Mueller
Page Views: 391 total, 3/month
Shared By: off white on Mar 17, 2008
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Just left of the Left Chimney, face climb to the large roof and hand traverse up the left edge. Face climb to a crack, climb this and continue up to easier ground.

Protection

top rope

Photos

jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
  5.10a/b
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
  5.10a/b
LOOSE ROCK: After getting to the easier upper portion of this climb, just above the hand cracks and into the juggier part there is a dinner-plate sized flake to climber's right that is flexing really loose and will come down soon. It's right where you want to grab, too, and is directly above where your belayer will be. BE CAREFUL! Jun 3, 2013
jeffblankman
San Diego, Ca
  5.10a/b
jeffblankman   San Diego, Ca
  5.10a/b
Not sure why this climb is not more highly rated! I enjoyed it immensely. It is definitely more thoughtful and balancey than the Squeeze or Babies, but there still is a lot of varied movement (including a sweet little layback) on high quality rock.

I only TRd it, but sussed out pro on the way up. Except for the very bottom, I think it would protect alright. A bit of a "high ball" start, followed by good opps for plenty pro in the horizontal crack/rail. The flared crack/dihedral above that may be a bit trickier and more sparse for pro, but there was a pod or two in there that would probably fit small Master Cams or TCUs. Most of the route would take mainly small to hand-sized cams and small to medium nuts. Probably a #2 or #3 C4 for the cracks at the top, right before the climbing eases a lot. Jun 3, 2013