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Routes in Eye Cave (Yan Jing Dong)

Barbara (Ba Ba La) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bear and Penguin (Xiong Qi) S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Fly Me to the Moon S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lightning (Shan Dian) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mushroom Soup (Mo Gu Tang) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nina (Ni Na) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Noodle Roof (Mian Tiao Wu Yan) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Project 1 S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Project 2 S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Swallow’s Flight (Fei Yan) S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Thunder (Lei Ming) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Women’s Magazine (Nu Xing Za Zhi) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 550 ft, 5 pitches
FA: Renée Mullen, Bob Moseley, and Wang Zhiming, May 2005
Page Views: 852 total · 7/month
Shared By: Bob Moseley on Mar 16, 2008
Admins: Bob Moseley, Dan Flynn, Nate Ball

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This five-pitch route ascends the buttress immediately right (downstream) of Eye Cave. It is a route to climb, not rappel, so bring walking shoes and scramble over the ridge above the top anchor to trail. DESCENT: Follow the small trail on the ridge east to the pavilion on the top of the mountain, then down through the forest to the River Cave and around the slope on old trail back to base of climb. See Eye Cave BETA PHOTO for access and route location. NOTE: Pitches 4 and 5 can be combined, but watch rope drag.

Pitch 1-5.7, 12 bolts to ledge. Metolius anchors on wall at back of ledge. 47 m.
Pitch 2-5.9, 13 bolts to exposed belay below large tree. 42 m.
Pitch 3-5.8, 7 bolts up and left to small ledge with Metolius anchors. 33 m.
Pitch 4-5.5, 2 bolts to a two-bolt anchor. 23 m.
Pitch 5-5.7, 3 bolts through roof, then up and right to Metolius anchors. 20 m.




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