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Do The Bosco

5.12-, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 50 votes
FA: D. Bloom
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Twin Butte > W Twin Butte > Planetarium

Description

This is a nice route named after a great dog and his reaction to falling rocks.

I have always found the start to be harder than the supposed crux. Even on the send I knew it was going to go once I to got to the rest below the crux without falling. However it seems most people feel differently, so check it out and see for yourself.

Boulder up & right out of the cave on stout moves to a rest. Continue up to a good stance below the crux. Clip the bolt and gun it for the next one. Continue up easier but thoughtful moves on softer rock to the anchor.

Location

Start just left of Fractal Universe (the thin crack just left of Space Cowboys) in a small cave.

Protection

Bolts to a bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Climber: Aaron Townsley <br>
Photo: Ryan Borys
[Hide Photo] Climber: Aaron Townsley Photo: Ryan Borys
Climber: Aaron Townsley<br>
Photo: Ryan Borys
[Hide Photo] Climber: Aaron Townsley Photo: Ryan Borys
Jesse Duff Woodruff showing solid form on the Bosco.
[Hide Photo] Jesse Duff Woodruff showing solid form on the Bosco.
Colin Cox on the FA of Do the Bosco.
[Hide Photo] Colin Cox on the FA of Do the Bosco.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Thought the first half of this route was fantastic but the upper half was way less than inspiring. 4 stars for the first half 2 for the upper, lots of loose, choss (and yes I'm used to climbing in Sedona), three options that I think hold merit... #1 intermediate anchor halfway up before you get into the choss. #2 Climb through the choss and clean the hell out of the route on the rappel... #3 transition over into the upper half of Fractal Universe and throw some bolts into what looks like amazing face climbing (I think this could = a 5 star route). Just to clarify these are just ideas not plans, just thinking online! Feb 15, 2010
Wiled Horse
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] Albeit im five yrs late to your party dean, i didnt think the upstairs parts were any chossier than usual Sedona choss. Nov 16, 2015
Aaron Townsley
Ten Sleep WY
  5.12-
[Hide Comment] Fun route, cool crux, thought provoking top. Broke a large foot hold 3/4 up the route that I had already tested and weighted.

Highly suggest belayer wear a helmet at this crag as that was the second large piece that came off that day. Mar 6, 2017
Mike
Phoenix
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] It seems like people are skipping the hard moves out of the cave by climbing some loose blocks out right. This easier variation is on much softer rock, and some of the blocks have already come off. Apr 5, 2017
Floater Bloom
Flagstaff AZ
 
[Hide Comment] You are correct Mike. Most people are starting in easier terrain to the right. Apr 11, 2017
Wylie
Bishop, CA
 
[Hide Comment] 12- if you do the great bouldery moves of the true start. Skipping these and doing the easy chossy start to the right probably puts it in the 11C or D range. Fun route. Thanks Bloomster. Feb 24, 2018
NAZ CC
Flagstaff, AZ
[Hide Comment] The NAZCC (Northern Arizona Climbers Coalition) added Climb Tech mussy hooks to the anchors. In collaboration with the ASCA (American Safe Climbing Association) and the Access Fund, the NAZCC will continue further anchor improvements and re-bolting efforts throughout the region. If you'd like to support the cause, you can donate at nazcc.org. Jan 16, 2020