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Routes in Grotto Right (West Side)
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666 S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Buck Tooth (AKA Spearhead) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Class Act S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Crack Wars T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Crystal Clear Arête S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Dopesmoker S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Happy Face (AKA Kitchen Sink) S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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In the Court of the Crimson King S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Leper Messiah S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Rickety Rock S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Ruffles Have Ridges T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Sin after Sin S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Tenable S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Trailer Park Girls S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Tweak Fuck S,TR 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a |
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Unknown S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Unknown aka "Box of Chocolates" S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Untenable S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Venarete S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Where the Wild Things Aren't S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Where the World Ends T,S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Winter Capacity S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Winter Warm-up T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Woogie's Wild Ride S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Ken Sims |
| Page Views: | 893 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | George Perkins on Mar 15, 2008 |
| Admins: | Shirtless Mike, Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands
Details
Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.
Description
Crack Wars has some interesting and good crack climbing on the right side of the Grotto.
Climb up the flake (which is apparantly solid) on either the left or the right to a left-leaning slab section. Lieback and stem your way up the crack directly above, with a couple of decent rests and good pro the whole way- except for a short section where there's wobbly flakes in the crack. Don't veer off right following a new bolt line- Ruffles Have Ridges. Some of the lieback sections are pretty strenuous, but there's always good pro- and look for handholds out left and footholds on the right wall here or there. Most of this section is in the 5.10- range.
Just before the top, you reach the offwidth crux of the route, where the character of the rock becomes more featured (unlike the smooth glossy rock below), yet the crack widens to a 5" slot and the face is slightly overhanging. Place big cams in the back, jam and move up, clip the chains.
Climb up the flake (which is apparantly solid) on either the left or the right to a left-leaning slab section. Lieback and stem your way up the crack directly above, with a couple of decent rests and good pro the whole way- except for a short section where there's wobbly flakes in the crack. Don't veer off right following a new bolt line- Ruffles Have Ridges. Some of the lieback sections are pretty strenuous, but there's always good pro- and look for handholds out left and footholds on the right wall here or there. Most of this section is in the 5.10- range.
Just before the top, you reach the offwidth crux of the route, where the character of the rock becomes more featured (unlike the smooth glossy rock below), yet the crack widens to a 5" slot and the face is slightly overhanging. Place big cams in the back, jam and move up, clip the chains.
Location
Crack Wars is climb 20 in the online Diablo guide for this section (however, there are a few new bolted routes not shown in that guide).
It is the 2nd obvious crack to climb on the right side of the Grotto, after you enter it. Walk about 20' left of Class Act and Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) and up a slope to the a large flake, which is at the base of the route.
It is the 2nd obvious crack to climb on the right side of the Grotto, after you enter it. Walk about 20' left of Class Act and Bong Crack (a.k.a. Surficial Scratch) and up a slope to the a large flake, which is at the base of the route.
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