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Peter's Ladder

5.9, Trad, 4 pitches,  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Scott Baxter, Tim Coats, Larry Coats - early 80's
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > Sedona > Steamboat Rock/… > The Acropolis

Description

Right heading ramp system, 1st pitch 5.7, 2nd pitch 5.9, 3&4 ? continue up and right...

Location

South end of Acropolis, faces Tisha Spire(same approach)

Protection

gear to #4camalot.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Tim Coats on the Peter's Ladder crux- a wild hand traverse right followed by a mantle onto the nose with miles of exposure below!
[Hide Photo] Tim Coats on the Peter's Ladder crux- a wild hand traverse right followed by a mantle onto the nose with miles of exposure below!
Phototopo of Peter's Ladder.
[Hide Photo] Phototopo of Peter's Ladder.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

bio
mesa, az
 
[Hide Comment]
Ramp system on South end of the Acropolis. Dirty but the roof problem makes it worth it. For pitch one you can climb easy ramp (5.6) and set up a belay anchor wherever convenient or stretch it out to the anchors for Rad OW(about 180 feet). If you stretch it out use some long runners to avoid rope drag. Right before the anchors there is a roof with a bolt that is missing a hanger, but is protectable with a #1 quite well for the 5.9 fun and exposed move. You can rap down Rad OW from there or continue up a short and grovely 5.8 pitch about 60 feet to an anchor that is a drilled angle and a bolt. You can then do 2 raps down Flight of the Anasazi with a 60 meter rope. The Peter's ladder route continues to the top up ledgey cracks systems, path unknown? Feb 18, 2010
[Hide Comment] A little history for this route: it was another remarkable line envisioned by Scott Baxter, and named for his then newly-born son (now in graduate school in Flagstaff!). The line follows the striking diagonal corner system, beginning as a ramp, then reversing into an overhang at the end. As noted in the description, most of the lower section is easy, but gains difficulty higher up. The crux comes at the very last move- a wild hand traverse above the abyss, followed by an undercut mantle onto a projecting nose on the ledge above. Tim enjoyed the expression on my face when following the pitch as I realized I had to unclip from the last piece, and face a substantial swing as I moved up into the hand traverse.

First ascent- Scott Baxter, Tim Coats, Larry Coats - early 80's Oct 24, 2010
Derek Field
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.10
[Hide Comment] Really neat feature to climb - the ramp that inverts to a roof. The cruxes are on somewhat soft rock which adds to the overall excitement. I thought the final move below the anchors on P2 was a pretty wild boulder problem. If you're linking the first two pitches (recommended), you'll be pulling that move with little to no communication with belayer. Protect this move with a .75 and/or 1 cam in the obvious horizontal slot next to the old bolt stud. The P3 offwidth makes for a good ol' sand-eating grovel-fest ending at a fully-hanging belay. Outrageous finishing pitch! Sep 6, 2016