Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,055 total · 16/month
Shared By: Karl K on Mar 15, 2008
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Climb crack and face to its right up to ledge. Climb featured face near the left edge of the black varnish through a small bulge at the very top (easy).
Climbing is usually positive, but the pro is thoughtful.


About 75' directly above the outhouse. Starts at a wide crack in a dihedral.
Walk off to climber's right(?) or rappel (60m will almost reach) off tree.


Wide gear (#3, 4 Camalots) can be used in the lower crack. Mostly wired nuts in the patina for the upper face.


Misha Tselman
New York, NY
Misha Tselman   New York, NY
Bring small nuts for the face part of the climb. The pro is there, but requires careful placement. Apr 28, 2008
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
What's the offwidth go at between spiderline and tricks are for kids? I got on it and thought it was purdy cool 5.8/9 climbing albeit somewhat squeeze job Apr 22, 2009
Look out for the pine pitch at the top of the route under the belay tree. Wouldn't want to get that on your rope. Oct 21, 2009

A big (purple?) tricam goes well in a pocket just off the halfway ledge. Wouldn't keep you off the ledge, but it will help, and keeps nuts from lifting.

I found the hardest moves to be the first 10' or so off the ledge, and not so well-protected. Otherwise - really nice pitch! Apr 9, 2010
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
Beautiful, aesthetic line on the upper face with intricate small wire placements. Note, the pine pitch at the anchors is on the rock as well as below the tree. Since the rap goes over an undercut edge, you might want to put a safety prusik on your rope as you walk off into rappel position. Be careful if pulling twin 60's on this; there are two small bear oak trees on the big ledge and they will tangle ropes! Dec 11, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 R
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.7 R
I found this route to be contrived, poorly protected, and semi-hard for the grade. I really didnt see 'the line' and ended up futzing around quite a bit, due to the fact that any fall below the final 15' of the route would deposit me on the ledge, breaking both my legs. Dec 11, 2010
Hendo Henderson
Denver, CO
Hendo Henderson   Denver, CO
I thought this route was excellent. At least the top section. Very unique, never climbed anything like it (I have only been trad leading for one year now though). I'm an adequate 5.7 (sometimes 5.8) trad climber and this felt perfect for the grade. Mar 19, 2013
First Track Jack
Evergreen, CO
First Track Jack   Evergreen, CO
I loved this route too!.. Did in two small pitches to avoid rope drag. #4 Cam for Large Hueco off second ledge and lots of small nuts for varnished section...... It was nice and sunny on a cold November day after some laps on Ragged Edges.

Rapped with 70 m but need to land left of start ten feet to make rope length.. Nov 21, 2014
Arin Earl
Las Vegas, NV 89085
Arin Earl   Las Vegas, NV 89085
I thought this route was safe and easy for the grade. Bring a set of wires for that upper face. Plenty of good placement! Fun casual climb. Jun 22, 2015
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
There was no rap anchor on 10-29-15 but its pretty easy walk off to the east. Decent route with decent pro. Nov 2, 2015
Arin Earl
Las Vegas, NV 89085
Arin Earl   Las Vegas, NV 89085
You rap off the tree at the top of the route. Pulls well. Nov 2, 2015
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
rapped via tree sling with a 70 m rope, landing back onto the starting spot (which is higher than the ledges around to climber's left), with a few ft to spare on each strand. clean pull by pulling just to the right of the starting wide cleft Dec 2, 2015
Matt Los Kamp
  5.7 PG13
Matt Los Kamp  
  5.7 PG13
Lots of spiders. Not much pro off the deck on the second section. Nov 15, 2017