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Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection (aka, "Sex")
5.12a,
Sport, 85 ft (26 m),
Avg: 3.8 from 84
votes
FA: Scott Ayers, Jeff Schoen & Eden Masters, 1990
California
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Upper Gorge
> Holy Trinity
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!!
Details
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points.
2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates.
3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.)
4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others.
5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
Description
This very aesthetic and potentially pumpy route follows the very blunt arete/face to the left of "Sex Packets" (Not to be confused with the deceiving blunt arete immediately adjacent to the 5.9 "Blasphemy") No stand-out cruxes, but it feels long and sustained, not to mention exposed. This route will seem less pumpy if you have good technique. Considering the high quality of this route, it seems under-traveled.
Location
One of a couple routes between "Sex Packets" and "Pick Pocket." Scramble up some ledges and a right leaning ramp, then head up the short, right facing corner to start the route.
Protection
Bolts
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Bishop, CA