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Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection
Sport, 85 ft,
Avg: 3.8 from 31
FA: Scott Ayers, Jeff Schoen & Eden Masters, 1990
> Sierra Eastside
> Bishop Area
> Owens River Gorge
> Upper Gorge
> Holy Trinity
Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! High water release May 13, 2019!!!
Alert! Water levels in the Gorge are set to rise starting Monday, May 13, 2019! From LADWP: "In order to manage the runoff, the Los Angeles Department of Water and Power plans to release water through the Middle Gorge starting on Monday May 13, 2019. LADWP is committed to public safety and is advising the public to practice general water safety and be aware of swift flowing water in this location. We will continue to keep residents in the Eastern Sierra informed of LADWP’s water operations for the spring and summer runoff."
Due to liability concerns, bridges are being removed in the Owens River Gorge at the request of LADWP. The Bishop Area Climbers Coalition and the Access Fund are currently in negotiations with LADWP to get this issue resolved. In the meantime, please continue to be good land stewards by respecting these bridge closures and finding alternate crossing points until this issue is resolved.
1) Never park or camp overnight at the access points. 2) Always park off the pavement, taking great care to avoid blocking the gates. 3) Clean up after your dogs. (Local climbers are finding abandoned doggie poop bags.) 4) Pack out all trash and TP, including picking up after others. 5) Use the outhouses if at all possible.
This very aesthetic and potentially pumpy route follows the very blunt arete/face to the left of "Sex Packets" (Not to be confused with the deceiving blunt arete immediately adjacent to the 5.9 "Blasphemy") No stand-out cruxes, but it feels long and sustained, not to mention exposed. This route will seem less pumpy if you have good technique. Considering the high quality of this route, it seems under-traveled.
One of a couple routes between "Sex Packets" and "Pick Pocket." Scramble up some ledges and a right leaning ramp, then head up the short, right facing corner to start the route.