Type: Sport, 85 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Jeff Schoen & Eden Masters, 1990
Page Views: 2,830 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tyler Logan on Mar 13, 2008 with improvements by Jack Waeschle
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Bridges Out! IMPORTANT LADWP NEGOTIATIONS!! Details

Description

This very aesthetic and potentially pumpy route follows the very blunt arete/face to the left of "Sex Packets" (Not to be confused with the deceiving blunt arete immediately adjacent to the 5.9 "Blasphemy")  No stand-out cruxes, but it feels long and sustained, not to mention exposed. This route will seem less pumpy if you have good technique. Considering the high quality of this route, it seems under-traveled.

Location

One of a couple routes between "Sex Packets" and "Pick Pocket." Scramble up some ledges and a right leaning ramp, then head up the short, right facing corner to start the route. 

Protection

Bolts

Photos

C Miller   CA  
The full name for this route, "Biochemically Compacted Sexual Affection", comes from the song Sex Packets, which incidentally is the 5.12a just to the right. Mar 15, 2008
Neil Rankin
Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
Neil Rankin   Winston-Salem, NC
  5.11d
My favorite 11d in the Gorge. Apr 1, 2013
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
One of the best 11d to on-sight. Hmmm... with all that chalkmarks on-sight is impossible. Thus it is one of the best 11d for your flash attempt. Nov 4, 2014
xfj
xfj  
On Feb 18 2019, the nut holding the hanger on the 5th bolt detached, leaving just the bolt stem in the wall. We didn't have any hardware/tools and weren't able to find the nut that fell off, but left the hanger at the base of the climb. Feb 19, 2019 · Temporary Report