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Routes in King's Hand

Easy Ramp T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
King's Hand Left T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
King's Hand Right T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Konichiwa T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Moonglue T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Sic Fun Ramp T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Teabag T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Unknown Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tony Valdes, Paul Frank, Bob Milton, 1987
Page Views: 1,248 total · 10/month
Shared By: Greg D on Mar 11, 2008
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

King's Hand Right is the same as the King's Hand Left except for the second and third pitch.
Pitch 1 (5.8). Climb straight up the middle of the formation for 150 feet. There is a pin about 60 feet up roughly in the middle of the formation just after what I would call the second bulge. There are some more gear placements after that, but still a bit runout.

Pitch 2 (5.10a) Climb up and right past a good pin. There is a bomber nut just above it. Move into the left of the two dihedrals and onto the anchors. The only jug on the pitch is a bit smaller now. It came off in my partner's hand and is probably on Wall Street now.

Pitch 3. Head out left past a few pins and behind the formation.

Pitch 4. Climb chimney and cracks behind the formation until behind the fingers.

Rappel in two double rope rappells with 60m ropes.

Runout (8), sanding and heady. The most adventure you'll have on Wall Street.

Location

The King's Hand is directly above the Jaycee Campground on Potash Road approximately 3.9 miles south of Hwy 191. Park at the campground and walk south through the camp sites and find the easiest way onto the bench above the campground, then north to the base of the formation which looks more like a foot with a large middle toe (or middle penis).

Protection

standard desert rack

Photos

Idaho Ian
Pocatello, ID
 
Idaho Ian   Pocatello, ID
 
Best of luck! Some rp's or offsets would have been nice for that slab. It was definately a head game! I wish I had more time to work it out, but we also had constraints with the light fading. Will be back to try it again sometime. Apr 23, 2017
TonyV
Cool, CA
TonyV   Cool, CA
Ian glad to see you tried the route. Putting that route up so many years ago and still climbing..I'm headed back to Moab daughter Becca to climb it together. I do recall how gripped I was on that run out section with a few baby angles on my rack. I wish you the best with your future climbs. This climb was my last first ascent having moved to the Pacific Northwest for other adventures:) Sep 11, 2016
Idaho Ian
Pocatello, ID
 
Idaho Ian   Pocatello, ID
 
Awesome looking climb, but had to bail on pitch 2. The 5.10 side of the second pitch ends with a burly, 30 ft runout up a blank slab section. Bring cojones for pro, as the single nut placement above 2 old pitons didn't do much for me.

Several small holds fell off the second pitch, likely down in the campground now if you want to replace them. May 13, 2016