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Routes in The Black Tower

Crown of Thorns S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Evil Twin S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exhumed S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Umbilical Cord S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
WhatÂ’s the Point S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,163 total, 10/month
Shared By: Bill Olszewski on Mar 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This very interesting route didn't find its way into Mayr's guide but is easy to find. It starts in the shallow, light-colored trough about 12' to the right of Umbilical Cord. And its more like two short and very different climbs stacked atop one another. The lower section features fine balance and smearing on tiny edges. Going straight up along the bolt line gives this one it's grade, but easier versions can be had to the right if on top-rope: although there is a crux move at the first bolt, the black patina soon leads one away from the bolts to better edges in the 5.9 to .10a range; stay within easy reach of the three bolts for sustained climbing at grade. After gaining the wide ledge above the lower slab, the climb moves up left to a flat black headwall. Opposing edges and creative footwork will take you past two more bolts to the top of the tower where a two bolt chain anchor is shared with the Umbilical Cord. Although this upper section is no harder than easy 5.9, the moves involved make this the best part of the climb. Rappel to descend.

Protection

5 bolts, bolted anchor

Photos

Nelson Day
Joshua Tree, CA
 
Nelson Day   Joshua Tree, CA
 
Well as the person who put up the route, I would think you know! I'm glad this is finally cleared up. Aug 31, 2011
I put up a route in 1995 that I called Evil Twin and I think this is the route described here. My route had 6 bolts plus the 2 bolt/chain anchor and it is between Umbilical Cord and Crown Of Thorns, (on the south west face of the Black Tower). I thought there was a move of 5.11 on the lower part of the climb.

I gave the route info and topo to Troy Mayr at the time, but it obviously was lost in the shuffle and didn't make it into the guide.

I have submitted Evil Twin as a new route. I believe the route Exhumed is on the north side of this formation. This probably means that the information submitted here for Exhumed, (photos, consensus, etc.), should be transferred to Evil Twin.

Kevin Aug 23, 2011
Matt Marino
Georgetown, MA
Matt Marino   Georgetown, MA
This is a good route and a lot of fun but I think 5.10c is inflated. This seemed to be more of a 5.9 or 5.10a if climb straight up the bolts. Apr 3, 2010
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10c
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10c
This is not the Exhumed that I climbed back in the 90's. That was 5.10c for sure and climbed a steep face past 2 horizontals, with the crux getting past the second horizontal. It was around the corner to the left of Umbilical Cord, 4 bolts to anchors. Feb 18, 2010
72HW Holly
  5.10c
72HW Holly  
  5.10c
Interesting indeed - I will have to look for the route you mention next time I'm out there.

Now I am really wondering what the route we are talking about is? Mar 15, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I originally posted this route without a name because Exhumed is shown in Troy's guide to the left of Umbilical Cord. "Exhumed" was added to this page as the route title at a later date by an MP administrator. I was unable to get confirmation from anyone regarding the proper name. But I've also met climbers who say that this route is Exhumed. Troy? Jack Marshall? Anyone know for sure?

There is, by the way, a bolted route on the north side of this formation (where Troy's guide shows Exhumed to be) that others tell me goes at about .10c. Feb 26, 2009
72HW Holly
  5.10c
72HW Holly  
  5.10c
Or there may be an error in Troy's book.

Naw - that could never be!

The above description and beta match the climb, though the 10c rating may be a little sandbagged. I have heard other people call this route Exhumed and tend to trust them more than Troy's book. Just an opinion. Feb 7, 2009
Chad Fry
Running Springs, CA
Chad Fry   Running Springs, CA
Exhumed in Mayr's book (3rd ed) is to the left of Umbilical Cord. This is a new route not in the book but I don't think it is Exhumed??? Feb 7, 2009