All Locations > California > High Desert > Apple Valley Crags > Horsemen's Center > The Cemetery > The Black Tower
Avg: 2.6 from 11 votes
|Type:||Sport, 50 ft|
|Page Views:||1,195 total · 10/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Olszewski on Mar 11, 2008|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
This very interesting route didn't find its way into Mayr's guide but is easy to find. It starts in the shallow, light-colored trough about 12' to the right of Umbilical Cord. And its more like two short and very different climbs stacked atop one another. The lower section features fine balance and smearing on tiny edges. Going straight up along the bolt line gives this one it's grade, but easier versions can be had to the right if on top-rope: although there is a crux move at the first bolt, the black patina soon leads one away from the bolts to better edges in the 5.9 to .10a range; stay within easy reach of the three bolts for sustained climbing at grade. After gaining the wide ledge above the lower slab, the climb moves up left to a flat black headwall. Opposing edges and creative footwork will take you past two more bolts to the top of the tower where a two bolt chain anchor is shared with the Umbilical Cord. Although this upper section is no harder than easy 5.9, the moves involved make this the best part of the climb. Rappel to descend.
5 bolts, bolted anchor