Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Steve Bartlett and Steve Unsch 1983 Onsite!
Page Views: 135 total · 1/month
Shared By: john durr on Mar 11, 2008
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This route is the obvious thin seam just left of Captain Kronos. Stem 15 feet up the seam with a couple shallow flared finger locks to find much easier and nice climbing above.


A small alien protects the crux start then a light rack of medium cams to 3.5". Gear anchor 0.5-2" cams work well. Walk off southeast fast and easy.


Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
Bring the small stuff. The gear is good though. Nov 15, 2012
  5.11a PG13
  5.11a PG13
Tough to get started on this one. Some sidepulls out left with the obvious crack and a small foothold down low got me moving. Once I got to the circle sidepull out on the face it felt better. going from that circle to the crack above and out of the pod was strenuous. The top lets off but the pump from the bottom didn't go away. Feb 19, 2013
I led this, Jan 1983, with Steve Unsch. Onsight lead. We assumed it was a first ascent. I told Ken Black that evening, round the fire, and next day Ken decided he wanted to do the second ascent, and we all wandered over and I took this photo. He was being belayed by a Canadian guy.

We named this Brownian Motion.

To add to the story, Ken Black got no further than than in the photo I posted. Unhappy, he began badmouthing both the climb and me. Not happy about this, proud of my first ascent, I simply put on my shoes and started soloing the route, right on front of him.

He was mad! Can't really blame him. I almost got my comeuppance when, 25 feet up, a flake I was liebacking broke and I started barndooring. I still recall the hyper-awareness: Ken and his partner both scrambling away from the landing zone as I slowly pivoted off, one hand free, neither foot on a hold. Time slowed almost to a standstill. There was one little bit of the flake left, pinched between my thumb and index finger and I managed a death grip on this, did a sort of one-arm pinch pullup, locked off and grabbed a big hold. That was about the end of the hard climbing, so I finished more easily. We were sort of even after that: I'd showed him up for failing on the route by soloing it in front of him but since I almost plummeted off the thing (bad landing, too) the effect was also to make me look stupid. Good times. Jan 27, 2014