Type: Boulder
FA: Luke Parady?
Page Views: 1,290 total · 10/month
Shared By: Tristan Perry on Mar 11, 2008
Admins: BDalhaus, Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey LeCours, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Make a long reach to a small hold on a severely overhanging arete. Then work up as high as possible and rock up onto the slab to finish on the slab. Very fun.

Location

On the trail from Round Pond to Boulder Natural, just past Comrad and right next to the trail.

Protection

Pad

Photos

BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
Does anyone know anything about a sit start to this problem? Mar 12, 2008
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6-7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6-7
So, are you more or less rocking onto the slab when you have the high right crimp in your right hand? Or are you moving even higher and trying to get to the jugs/edges up and right? Sep 12, 2013
BDalhaus
Bangor, ME
BDalhaus   Bangor, ME  
You'll just want to get your feet on the start holds whenever you can and then start working your way up the slab. I found a right palm on the arete worked better for me than the crimp. Be careful you don't smash your shins. Sep 13, 2013
Alec Woolley
Allenstown
 
Alec Woolley   Allenstown
 
I really enjoyed the movement for gaining the slab. For me it was a press from hanging underneath to full extension with the high right hand. Haven't experienced a move like that in the park before. Mar 26, 2014
Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V6-7
Christian Prellwitz   Telluride, CO
  V6-7
This ended up climbing so much differently than I expected it to. My beta was similar to Bryce's. (So thanks for the beta!)

It also ended up being nowhere near as cool as I thought it would be. If only this climbed as good as it looked. Bizarre and difficult to grade.

I also thought the finishing moves (after establishing on the slab) would be more casual than they ended up being. I climbed this today and the slab was still damp from the heavy rain over the past few days. That made the tenuous and technical finishing moves very exciting! Especially alone with only two pads. Jul 17, 2014
Graham O.
  V5-6 PG13
Graham O.  
  V5-6 PG13
This thing is amazing!! It honestly felt no harder than v5, but that's not to say it wasn't absolutely classic. The transition onto the slab was gold! The slab was pretty tough until you got the vertical jug rail. More people should try this, I honestly think it's one of the best in Pway!

About the sit start, Keith did it a year or two ago and called it a very worthy v8 including a slap to a sloping pinch on the arete and the use of the chalked-up underclings on the roof. It's featured in his fantastic 14 minute "Pawtuckaway Bouldering" video. I have also heard that there is a project that uses the undercling rail on the roof and slaps up the arete until you reach the jug rail rather than transitioning onto the slab. Maybe v12?


Footage starts at 6.10:
photos.google.com/share/AF1… Oct 23, 2016