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Safe Cracker

5.6, Trad, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 81 votes
FA: unknown
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 1 - Lower Highway > Prison Camp (Go… > Mr. Meanor Wall

Description

I've never seen this route named, so I'm taking the liberty. All the routes on this wall are good, and although it's pretty easy, it's one of the better ones. This and 3rd Offense are the only two all gear routes on this wall. Good pro, and one somewhat awkward move...

Location

The obvious, wide crack immediately right of Mr. Meanor.

Protection

Small Stoppers, mid to large size cams

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perfect bomber gear placements. Nuts, cams, and hexs, oh my!
[Hide Photo] Perfect bomber gear placements. Nuts, cams, and hexs, oh my!
Me at the top of a nice sewn up crack!
[Hide Photo] Me at the top of a nice sewn up crack!
Great trad climb for night time.
[Hide Photo] Great trad climb for night time.
good route plenty of places to stick gear
[Hide Photo] good route plenty of places to stick gear

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] already a "Safecracker" in this area. Mar 17, 2008
Meghan
Sierra Vista, AZ
[Hide Comment] ...Ahhh, but he is naming this one "Safe Cracker", not "Safecracker". Play one the first route, or play on any of the variety of meanings of the word "cracker"? For instance, I am almost certainly a "cracker", and may be safe, but is that the type of cracker to which he refers?? O.K., just being silly, but it really isn't the same name. Jun 17, 2008
[Hide Comment] is this route the one left of St. Valentine's Day massacre? Jan 18, 2010
litld01
san antonio tx
  5.6 PG13
[Hide Comment] good route whatever the name is ...great first trad lead plenty of places for pro to the top... used stoppers cams and hexes Mar 23, 2010
Bigbad WOLF Anderson
Tucson, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] I'd climb this over and over ha its great fun !! May 31, 2010
NickMartel
Tucson, Arizona
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Very fun route! The gear is bomber and you can pretty much plug it in as often as you want/need. This does have a few tougher moves (I climbed it twice more on TR after leading it just to make sure the I took the path of least resistance the first time and could not find a better sequence. I would say it is mostly 5.6 but there are 2 spots with 5.7(-) moves. This would make an awesome 1st trad lead. Oct 3, 2011
Scott Ferguson 1
Denver Colorado
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Great lead. The hardest part is the start which is a fairly awkward mantle move onto a ledge (although not that difficult really). The entire route protects well and is a great place to work on gear placements. Mar 22, 2014
[Hide Comment] Well-protected and well-suited for new trad leader. Close to another good route for a new trad leader "Petty Theft". Jan 4, 2016
A H
 
[Hide Comment] Enjoyable lead with solid gear. Great beginner gear lead Nov 24, 2018
Tom Sawyer
North Conway, NH
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Very nice climb with ample opportunities to place gear. Some of the moves on the first half felt more like 5.6+ or 5.7- but can easily be protected. Jan 23, 2019
[Hide Comment] Fantastic first trad lead. Lots of places for gear. Highly recommend! Apr 19, 2021