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The Payment Plan

5.12b, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 62 votes
FA: Dave Quinn, June 2004
New Hampshire > Rumney > Meadows > No Money Down Area
Warning Access Issue: Note: New route moratorium area DetailsDrop down

Description

A newish route to the left of No Money Down... Pretty fun really but not my style... If you like sharp, powerful, bouldery climbing dig in...

Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it...

I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...

Location

Next line left of No Money Down...

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips...

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

warning the holds get sharp up there...
[Hide Photo] warning the holds get sharp up there...
This is the beginning of the crux... left hand undercling right hand on the sharp pocket with a thumb lock...
[Hide Photo] This is the beginning of the crux... left hand undercling right hand on the sharp pocket with a thumb lock...
Me falling off of Payment Plan on the onsight attempt
[Hide Photo] Me falling off of Payment Plan on the onsight attempt
One more beta photo... left hand on a good incut that is very sharp... right hand on the sharp 2 finger pocket with a thumb lock... the best beta I've found is from here move the right hand up to a crimp, left foot out left right foot drop knee on a good edge to make the crux reach for a small crimp... sorry for the spray...it was a revelation
[Hide Photo] One more beta photo... left hand on a good incut that is very sharp... right hand on the sharp 2 finger pocket with a thumb lock... the best beta I've found is from here move the right hand up to a…
Zagy cleaning in a sea of gold
[Hide Photo] Zagy cleaning in a sea of gold
This might be the funniest face I've made while climbing... i found better beta and now the faces i make are much more dignified.. photo by Dave...
[Hide Photo] This might be the funniest face I've made while climbing... i found better beta and now the faces i make are much more dignified.. photo by Dave...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ladd Raine
Plymouth, NH
  5.12a
[Hide Comment] I like this route but I never knew the name. The crux sequence is super hard and one of the bolts I find pretty hard to clip, but other than that this route is enjoyable.

I never used the knee bar for anything more than theory, and I think you need to be pretty strong to do anything but dyno through the crux sequence. Mar 11, 2008
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] So this route is powerful which isn't my strength so it was really hard for me... i just had a block on it... but i grew to like it a lot even though at first i wasn't crazy about it... i really needed to work out ever part of my sequence perfectly before it would go... i now have the perfect sequence for me and if it wasn't so damn sharp I'd do it again soon... Apr 30, 2008
MattWallace
Center Harbor, NH
[Hide Comment] is this just right of repo? Mar 17, 2009
Jeffrey LeCours
New Hampshire
[Hide Comment] Yea, it's the bolted line between Repossession and No Money Down Apr 18, 2009
[Hide Comment] FA Dave Quinn June 2004 May 16, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] Boulder problem def constitutes V5, so how would that be 12a? 12b seemed very appropriate for this boulder/route. Oct 13, 2010
Lee Hansche
Allenstown, NH... and a van…
  5.12b
[Hide Comment] i did enter it as 12b but others have voted it as 12a so the consensus was lowered... Oct 14, 2010
[Hide Comment] Thought this was a pretty fun little route. Didn’t seem too sharp to me. Solid 2 star route at a 2 star crag! Oct 5, 2025