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Routes in No Money Down (Left)

Coveted, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dung Beetle S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Terms S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
False Modesty S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mr. Popular S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
No Money Down S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Payment Plan, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Repossession S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Rose Garden S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Student Loan S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Thou Shalt Not Covet S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Truth in Advertising S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Dave Quinn, June 2004
Page Views: 517 total, 4/month
Shared By: lee hansche on Mar 10, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

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27 Opinions

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Note: New route moratorium area Details

Description

A newish route to the left of No Money Down... Pretty fun really but not my style... If you like sharp, powerful, bouldery climbing dig in...

Climb the moderate start up a juggy vertical face that is much like the start of No Money Down... The big difference between this climb and that one is that once you get to the roof this crux is about V5 rather than the V1 or V2 that gets you to the chains on No Money Down (5.10c)... A good jug before the roof lets you rest a little (though you might not need it) before pulling in to some powerful moves out a roof and a rounded bulge... The holds are sharp and keeping your feet on requires some core strength... There looks to be many options for a sequence through the crux... I've even heard that a knee bar is possible (but i havent found it), however you get it done, have fun with it...

I use an undercling left on the roof, then a pocket with a thumb catch right, to a pretty good but very sharp left hand hold and a big move with a right leg drop-knee to a crimp before getting my hands over the top via a couple smaller moves... Mantel to the ledge and clip the chains...

Location

Next line left of No Money Down...

Protection

5 bolts to quick clips...
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
i did enter it as 12b but others have voted it as 12a so the consensus was lowered... Oct 14, 2010
andyscott
Massachusetts
  5.12b
andyscott   Massachusetts
  5.12b
Boulder problem def constitutes V5, so how would that be 12a? 12b seemed very appropriate for this boulder/route. Oct 13, 2010
FA Dave Quinn June 2004 May 16, 2010
Jeffrey.LeCours
New Hampshire
Jeffrey.LeCours   New Hampshire  
Yea, it's the bolted line between Repossession and No Money Down Apr 18, 2009
matthewWallace
Sandwich, NH
matthewWallace   Sandwich, NH
is this just right of repo? Mar 17, 2009
lee hansche
goffstown, nh
 
lee hansche   goffstown, nh  
 
So this route is powerful which isn't my strength so it was really hard for me... i just had a block on it... but i grew to like it a lot even though at first i wasn't crazy about it... i really needed to work out ever part of my sequence perfectly before it would go... i now have the perfect sequence for me and if it wasn't so damn sharp I'd do it again soon... Apr 30, 2008
Ladd

  5.12a
Ladd    
  5.12a
I like this route but I never knew the name. The crux sequence is super hard and one of the bolts I find pretty hard to clip, but other than that this route is enjoyable.

I never used the knee bar for anything more than theory, and I think you need to be pretty strong to do anything but dyno through the crux sequence. Mar 11, 2008