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Routes in Pyromania Area

Billy Bob The Beached Bison T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cakewalk T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Nasty Habits T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pint Sized Goddess T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pyromania T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Salty Dog T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sunday Stroll T,S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Chuck Lohn?
Page Views: 647 total, 5/month
Shared By: Daniel S on Mar 6, 2008
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See regulations for Wichita Mountains Wild Life Refuge Details
This area is designated as Charon Details
Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

This is the first rout you come to on the left side when hiking up the gully to Treasure cove. Start the climb on delicate pincher's and slopers to gain the short lived crack. Stick a cam in the crack (1.5 inches) as high in the crack as you can and crank up to the first bolt. Continue on a little easier terrain to the second bolt. Then pull yourself over the lip and onto less vertical rock (crux). Then run it out to slanted crack and place your piece of pro (1.5 inch cam) and climb licheny rock to the tree.

Location

Start the rout just to the left of the crack, then gain the crack once off the ground. To get down, either leave webbing on the tree (not recommended) or climb up and left and circle back down on treacherous 4th and easy 5th class down climbing.

Protection

2 cams 1 to 2 inches. 2 quick draws for the bolts. Webbing to sling the tree for an anchor.

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