Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Annie Trujillo, Karin Wuhrmann, Greg Barnes, October 2003.
Page Views: 1,499 total · 11/month
Shared By: Greg Barnes on Mar 5, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Bolted sport chimney, the crux is when the chimney gets too wide and you have to commit to the face, then make awkward moves up under the corner of a gigantic chockstone. Link with After Eights for 100' of 5.8 (need 12 draws)


Start in the back end of the chimney behind the Chocolate Block.


5 bolts, single 1/2" bolt anchor on huge ledge, or 12 bolts and mussy hook anchor if you link with After Eights.


Awesome climb for a first chimney! best part is pulling over the giant boulder "roof" which is wedged at the top of the chimney. May 30, 2012
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Amazingly fun and so happy to find a Barnes et. al route to jump on. Good stuff, fun climbing and absolutely worth doing while in the area. A few crumbs here and there but overall classic when linked with After Eights No rope drag, easy climbing and partner can hear you (although line of sight is long lost) Feb 12, 2016
Link with After Eight gets my 4 star rating. Really really good. The linkup top-ropes with a 70m. Apr 27, 2016
Taylorsville, UT
DCrane   Taylorsville, UT
Very unique, cool climb! Love the chimney exit struggle Oct 29, 2016
Patrick Eger
Patrick Eger  
No point in stopping after the chimney bit... awkward single bolt would need to leave gear to rap, and probably risk hanging the rope up. Bring a 70m rope and go the full 12 bolts! Jun 11, 2017