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Routes in Lost Huecos Wall

Lost Huecos T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Winnebago T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Burcham, Martin
Page Views: 678 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tavis Ricksecker on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Starts on the north side of the tower which leans against the western toe of the Lost Huecos wall. The first pitch climbs bolted slab past several bolts to a 5.9 roof crossing the limestone band. Bolted belay on top of the limestone. The second pitch climbs an awesome hand crack which pinches to tips before opening up again in the obtuse corner formed by the edge of the tower (10c). Belay on top of the tower at another comfy belay. The third pitch steps down and right to access a handcrack out on the face. Cruise up the handcrack (5.8) to the top. There is a bit of looseness on the third pitch. Once on top head east before descending slopes to the north then down a west facing gully back to your packs.

Protection

Double set from tips to hand sizes.

Photos

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Bill Lundeen
Lee Vining, CA
  5.10+
Bill Lundeen   Lee Vining, CA
  5.10+
Good little route in an awesome location. I'd say 1 star for pitches 1 & 3, but pitch 2 gets 3 stars in my book. No harder move on it than 10c, but the sustained nature leads me to rate it 10+ (as per Indian Creek type of rating), especially due to the size of crack there (tips/tight fingers).

P1 has 3 bolts and a couple small cams. P2 needed singles from 00tcu to #3 Camalot, with doubles in the .3 - .5 Camalot size. P3 used singles from .5 to 2 Camalot. Probably should just do 2 ea. from 00 to #2 or 3.

All 3 pitches now end at bolted belays (Metolious rap anchors), so you can leave your approach shoes at your pack. Rappels are all 90' or less.

Approach as for Lost Huecos, parking at Brins Mesa TH and looking for a small south-heading climbers trail that branches off only about 1 or 2 hundred yds down the main trail. Oct 29, 2016
markguycan
flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b/c
markguycan   flagstaff, AZ
  5.10b/c
I heard this is route was named Winnebago.
The second pitch is pretty exciting but I'd give it 10.c & PG13 at most. Nov 28, 2011
jayci
Flagstaff
  5.11a R
jayci   Flagstaff
  5.11a R
This climb is not as good as LW. The corner pitch looks inviting, but protects with some pretty small stuff in marginal rock. The moves are committing and feel like maybe 11a tips laybacking. Don't take this one lightly! The bolts on the first pitch are unnecessary. There are good placements next to all of them and the climbing is easy. Feb 24, 2011