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Routes in Alcohol Wall

Anabuse S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Atavan S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
B-52 S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Blue Agave S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bottoms Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Bourbon Street S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cold Turkey S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Comfortably Numb S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Day Drunk S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Delirium Tremens S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Empty Glass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Happy Hour S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Home Brew S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Jones, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Koskenkorva Martini S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Liquid Diet S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mak Daddy S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: Mark Thomas & Lance Hadfield
Page Views: 358 total, 3/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Devious from the ground, this one wastes no time in getting started. Use some crimps to get established to a nice hold. Make a large move to get established on an undercling. Continue up pull the final bulge and head up on easier ground.

Location

Towards the right side of Alcohol wall. Between Happy Hour 10d and Cold Turkey 10d/11a. 2nd route from the right side of the wall. Shares final bolt and anchors with Cold Turkey.

Protection

4 Bolts to Anchors.

Photos

Andrew B. Ellis  
5.12b
Got on this this weekend - this is usually a grade I can solve fairly quickly, but this felt quite difficult

This thing feels much harder than 11b. The moves to get to the first clip feel 11c, and the powerful move to the undercling feels 12b(v5). The undercling is high up and at about head level when you stick it. Holding the undercling with one hand to clip is tenuous at best and quite powerful as there aren't really any good feet to get up on it where you would have a more positive grip - I couldn't make the clip safely in that position.

It only got harder from there. The space between bolts 2 and 3 is super blank for this grade. We tried for a while on lead and then also even on toprope to solve the puzzle - looks like it has to wander left of the bolt line to find the natural line between clips 2 and 3?

Feels a number grade (12b) harder to me, which left me baffled. Aug 7, 2017
lance hadfield
tijeras
lance hadfield   tijeras
First ascent was Mark Thomas and Lance Dec 20, 2011