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Routes in Tortilla Flats

Bean Dip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Feet and Wine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frijoles Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Chile T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hot Salsa T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Salsa Direct T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jalapeño Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jalapeño Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mejilla Derecha T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mejilla Izquierda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Lichen T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not My Lichen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shrimp Fajita T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smorgasbord T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steak Fajita TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Vintage Wine T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: TR, 45 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Jim Straight, Roy Lucht, Mike Montoya, Lou Horak
Page Views: 137 total · 1/month
Shared By: Brett Kettering on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

The beta photo shows three lines on this slab. This one is a bit more meaty (ergo the name, "Steak Fajita") than it's smaller brother to the left, "Shrimp Fajita".

The left, green, line appears to be the same route as #3 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, rated at 5.9-. Also it is described as route #3 in the online guide, rated as a "5.9 Face/Friction" line.

It's not clear if the 5.7 crack immediately to the right is on or off route. If the crack is off, then this was most likely intended to be a toproped climb, due to the absence of bolts, because part of the bottom one-third of the face probably clocks in at well over 5.10 (imagine slick smearing on smooth, patinated, shallow ripples of basalt) with no pro and high groundfall potential. Even if the crack is on, the upper one-third of this face route diverges from the crack and would be sketchy to lead on gear, although it's more like 5.8 at the top. Overall it feels kind of contrived (as I understand the line). Any FA information as to the original intent of this line?

The middle, yellow, line is probably the same route as #4 in Beverly's (2006) Jemez Rock guide, but that guide appears to have the topo slightly wrong (too far to the right). This crack is also apparently noted on the online guide's hand-drawn topo, but it is not identified as a climb in that guide.

This grassy/dirty crack starts thin and angles up left; at which point it then widens to hands and continues up to the right across the slab face. The top of the crack keeps angling to the right until it forms basically a horizontal ledge, from which you must continue either up the face on the left or back to a short crack system. Rated at 5.7 if you stay in the crack.

The right, red, line is rated 5.8+, but mainly for the bottom part staying on the corner. There's a bit more grippy 5.8'ish climbing about 2/3 of the way up. After that, angle left to the anchor.

Location

What was formerly called Tortilla Slab Left ascends the left half of the Steak Fajita Slab, located near the northernmost (leftmost) end of the cliff.

What was formerly called Tortilla Slab Crack splits the Steak Fajita Slab.

A formerly undocumented line to the right of the crack has sloping problem to get over near the bottom, then climbing more like the left side, but with bigger, better holds to the top.

Protection

TR, or can use standard cams and nuts in the crack.

Set a gear anchor on top or use the two-bolt anchor

Photos

Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
 
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
 
My 5.9 rating is strictly for historical purposes; I really don't know what to rate this line, depends on what part of it you climb I guess. I'll add/subtract info to this route description if anyone has additional beta or comments. Help is appreciated. Mar 3, 2008
Brett Kettering
  5.9-
Brett Kettering  
  5.9-
Chris:

A friend and I did three variations on this climb. I'd say your ratings are accurate. Here's what we did:

1) Left side face. The hold are small and the holes small. It's fairly steep. I'd say your 5.9 rating is good for this variation.

2) Straight up the crack in the middle. There are only a couple spots where it's difficult to keep a hand and foot on the wall. I think your 5.7 rating is good.

3) Right side corner. We tried staying on the corner and using the large rock a bit further right to stem up a bit before moving over onto the corner. This is the hardest part of this variation. Once up over the first hump it gets easy for a bit, then it steepens and the holds get thin, but if you move quickly through this section you get over it to the last few easy feet to the top. The corner problem is probably 5.8+. The rest is 5.7+ - 5.8. It's a bit harder than the crack, but not a lot harder.

Thanks for the page.

Brett Apr 13, 2017