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Routes in Tortilla Flats

Bean Dip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Feet and Wine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frijoles Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Chile T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Salsa T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Salsa Direct T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jalapeño Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jalapeño Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mejilla Derecha T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mejilla Izquierda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Lichen T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not My Lichen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shrimp Fajita T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smorgasbord T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steak Fajita TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vintage Wine T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Jim Straight, Roy Lucht, Mike Montoya, Lou Horak
Page Views: 445 total, 4/month
Shared By: Brett Kettering on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A fine, short face climb, good for beginner TR's or even a starter trad leader. Wander up the lefthand half of the easy slab face, using pockets, horizontal seams, and little ledges that are all reminiscent of Princess Buttercup.

The on-line guide's topo shows this line as a "5.6 friction" route. Beverly (2006:204) notes this climb as #2, one of a "pair of friction slab climbs." Neither source provides a photo of the route.

This face includes the route that was called, "Unnamed Right Face" and rated a bomb. You can still go up that side of the slab, but it's more fun if you stay a little further left than was shown and angle back left to the bolted anchor at the top. I will delete "Unnamed Right Face" as a route of its own. For historical purposes, here was the description of "Unnamed Right Face":

Compared to the Left face of this beginner slab, this is a less enjoyable climb on the right side of the slab. Infrequent gear-placement opportunities with awkward stances, possibly loose holds, devious move sequences partially dictated by the need to avoid a fat cactus at mid-route, and the possibility of a ledge fall, all add up to make this a less-than-stellar lead. Probably OK for a beginner TR, though.

The on-line guide's topo shows this line as a "5.6 friction" route. Beverly (2006:204) notes this climb as #2, one of a "pair of friction slab climbs." Neither source provides a photo of the route. And, this isn't really so much of a strict friction climb, as it is a face climb with a few frictiony feet. But, any friction is uncommon around White Rock.

Location

One of the the northernmost (leftmost) climbs at the cliff, on the easy slab face to the left of the Tortilla Slab. This line ascends the left half of the face.
Although the online guide's topo implies that one could toprope both the right and left climbs from a single toprope anchor in the center of the face, that would result in your rope draping over a nice fat cliff-dwelling cactus, with spiny results. Probably better to TR the L and R faces separately.

For historical purposes, here was the location of the formerly separately documented "Unnamed Right Face":

One of the the northernmost (leftmost) climbs at the cliff, on the easy slab face to the left of the Tortilla Slab. This line ascends on the right side of the fat little cactus in the middle of the face.

Although the online guide's topo implies that one could toprope both the right and left climbs from a single toprope anchor in the center of the face, that would result in your rope draping over the cliff-dwelling cactus, with spiny results. Probably better to TR the L and R faces separately.

Protection

Actually decent placements are available for leading this unbolted face. Use small nuts (sometimes in opposition) in the horizontal seams. Placements are sometimes kind of fiddly to get in, but good stances allow fiddling-around time.

Set a gear anchor on top or use the two-bolt anchor.

For historical purposes, here was the Protection of the formerly separately documented "Unnamed Right Face":

Unlike the Left face this route doesn't provide many good gear placements OR decent stances from which to fiddle around. Small stuff, mainly: I managed to wiggle in three tiny cams (two Zero's and a blue TCU) and a wobbly pink tri-cam. Gear or slung boulders will work at the top (or even sling trees for a TR anchor).

Photos

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