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Routes in Tortilla Flats

Bean Dip T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Five Feet and Wine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Frijoles Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Chile T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Salsa T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hot Salsa Direct T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jalapeño Crack T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jalapeño Dip T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lichen Delight T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mejilla Derecha T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mejilla Izquierda T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Lichen T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Not My Lichen T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shrimp Fajita T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smorgasbord T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Steak Fajita TR 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Vintage Wine T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft Fixed Hardware (1)
FA: Jim Straight, Roy Lucht, Mike Montoya, Lou Horak
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Brett Kettering on Mar 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

This is route #14 in the online LAM guide. It was called, "Unnamed, left of the nose". Well, left of the nose is the Right Cheek, which is Spanish is Mejilla Derecha.

Start in the blocky crack system in a shallow right facing corner and work up to a stance where it changes to a left facing corner. Watch the abundant loose rock at this stance. A hand crack continues up the intersection between the face on the left and the arete/nose on the right. Follow the crack on up as it narrows to fingers, to the top of the pillar at the top of the arete, where there is a shaky block (with loose gravel) and poor protection. From the top of the pillar, head up the face to the left on easier ground, but with poor protection.
An OK lead, but loose and not terribly interesting.

Location

Easily identified by the prominent flat-bottomed nose/arete, just to this route's [climber's] right.

Protection

Standard cams and nuts.

Set a gear anchor on top or use the two-bolt anchor.

Photos

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