Tiny Left Face
Trad, TR, 40 ft (12 m),
Avg: 1.7 from 3
> Wichita Mountai…
> Charon's Gardens
> Tiny Bubbles
This area is designated as Charon
Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.
Access is always an issue here.
Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.
The route is rated 5.6 in Chuck Lohn's Guide book. However, I have never fallen off a 5.6, or anything under 5.9 before attempting this route on TR. If you follow the topo provided, you will find yourself pulling a lip, 17 feet up, on strait vertical rock with thin crimpers. A 5.10d move at least. The rest of the rout is 5.6 though.
Third water streak from the right.
Top Rope from anchors just to the left of the top of the route. The crack near the top of the route will accept 1 to 2 inch pro.