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Routes in Paydirt Pinnacle

Chedaryl T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Harbinger T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Kamps Groove, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Kamps Route NW Face T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Southeast Chimney T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Bob Kamps August 1965
Page Views: 59 total, 0/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Feb 29, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This route is really fun with the crux at the bolt near the bottom. The runout up the water groove to the summit is enjoyable low fifth class climbing. The start may be more difficult for the vertically challenged climbers out there.

This was the first 5.9 that I led (1978). In my opinion this route makes a great introduction to the area and a warmup for Harbinger.

There is a direct start to this route that John Gill climbed in the early 1960's that is quite difficult. The route starts at the ground and climbs out of the chimney avoiding stemming across.

Location

The route is located on the south face of Paydirt Pinnacle. Scramble up thru the old root cellar then to the top of the flake. Belay on top of the flake. The route is just right of Harbinger. The route can be identified by a groove protected by one bolt.

Protection

One lone bolt (protects the crux); Unknown anchors (possibly use Harbinger anchors)

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