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Routes in Severity Buttress

Fata Morgana T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Huggin' The Hardpan T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Severity Disparity T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Severity Disparity Direct S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Without Despair T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Trad, Sport, 250 ft, 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: P1: James Garrett with Patrick Maloney, November 1993
Page Views: 1,120 total · 9/month
Shared By: tenesmus on Feb 28, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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This is a two pitch line with fun traversing on bolts and a nice finger crack with lots of edges and boulder problems. The second pitch is all bolts with mellow 5.11 climbing - assuming you spot the right holds. It is easy to lead pitch 2 then lower off and let the other climber lead it, cleaning as they lower.


There is an obvious finger crack up the middle of this face that leads towards the left side of an oblong roof. This route starts with bolts about 30 feet right of the two bolts below this crack. (It looks like someone added a direct start) If you stand on the huge pedestal out from the base of the route you can see the bolts of Severity Disparity traversing in towards the crack from the left.


Small nuts and a dozen draws with some long runners for the traverses. It is often very easy to back clean the bolt below you. A 70m rope gets you back to the ground.


Joe Forrester
Palo Alto
Joe Forrester   Palo Alto
Nothing larger than a 0.75 Camalot needed on the first pitch. Jan 26, 2015
Super quality...finger cracks, continuous face climbing, great rock, cool belay ledge, exposure...this route has it all! May 11, 2010
This was the first route to be bolted at Ibex,and what a fine line it is. Oct 20, 2009

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