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Peak Performance

5.10a/b, Trad, TR, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 3 from 113 votes
FA: Lynn Hill
Maine > -Acadia NP > Otter Cliffs
Warning Access Issue: Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons DetailsDrop down

Description

Start 7 ft right of A Dare by the Sea. Climb up to the small roof and step left into a short left facing corner to an overlap. Traverse right on a horizontal then trend left on jugs to top out.

Protection

Standard New England rack with a #3 camalot for the crux.
2 bolt anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking up from the shelf.
[Hide Photo] Looking up from the shelf.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Morse
Hooksett, New Hampshire
 
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing! You can do this on the same staple anchor as A Dare By the Sea and it's well worth doing both! Oct 2, 2013
[Hide Comment]
Moving out onto the horizontal
Aug 21, 2014
John Gassel
Boulder, CO
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] This felt like a pretty serious lead. I got this fully on-sight, but had to make some committing moves in the process. As the gear beta on here suggests a #3 cam is bomber right before the crux. The next piece you can place is a good distance above that and hard to do on lead. I opted to just run it out to a restful stance and put in gear at that point, but this definitely made things PG-13.

This felt like a harder lead than its neighbor, A Dare By the Sea which I did with relative ease right before Peak Performance.

The climbing on this route is good and definitely worth doing for the grade. I just thought I'd share my thoughts for those looking to hop on lead this. I'm sure it was nothing for Lynn Hill on the FA though! Jul 9, 2015
[Hide Comment] I TR'd this, but wish I wore a helmet so I didn't bump my head on the spiky bits above. Otherwise, I really enjoyed this route. Aug 11, 2015
Xi Yin
 
[Hide Comment] Led this route after three laps of TR practice. double rope, placed opposing nuts on the thin crack at the start of the traverse, cam on horizontal fist crack, then a few thin moves to gain a secure position and plug in red #1 cam before topping out.

Also tried direct variation without the traverse (nor using the horizon crack): big reach with right hand to the crimper that is used by the left hand in the regular route, paste right foot just above the roof, then a desperate sequence with left heel hook, left hand to thin crimp hold then bump up to another. Feels very hard. Oct 15, 2018
Ryan Jones
Denver, Co
 
[Hide Comment] Very nerve racking lead with the lose rock at the start and the sharp granite edge that the rope runs over in the middle of the route. Using doubles on this could prevent that situation. Other than that, great route and fun climbing. Sep 18, 2020
MattH
CO / NM / ME
[Hide Comment] Dare I say this is more fun and harder than its more popular neighbor? Do this climb. Nov 23, 2020
Kyle O
  5.10b
[Hide Comment] I agree with the above; this climb’s grade is not consistent with its neighbor A Dare by the Sea, IMO. This crux is much harder. This climb’s crux felt 5.10b/c to me while A Dare felt 5.9/10a at most. Great climb nonetheless. Jul 3, 2022
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
[Hide Comment] Kyle, you’re in good company with the 10c, but the vast majority are still at 10a/b.
Maybe it’s easier if you’re short? ( FA Lynn Hill !) Jul 3, 2022