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Routes in Gatekeeper Wall

Gatekeeper Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-
Locksmith Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 750 ft, 8 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - April 2005. FFA Mike Anderson in 2007
Page Views: 2,584 total · 21/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

The Locksmith Dihedral follows the steep, tasty-looking corner up the middle of the buttress.

The first pitch begins in a short chimney filled with a block. An off-size hand crack leads up to a V slot and to the start of the main corner.

The 2nd pitch was one of the best finger cracks I've ever done. Continue up the dihedral to the top of a prominent tower, which was just 25' from the rim. Lots of loose rock was trundled from this top section as we rappelled off. If you want to go to the top of the formation, climb a 5.6 R pitch. There are no anchors here...you'll need to walk West to the Gatekeeper Crack and rap that route. The first 4 pitches offer the best quality, but going to the top is still well worth it.

There are no summit anchors so it might be best to rap down the Gatekeeper Crack.

Location

See photo

Protection

  • One #0 TCU
  • Three #1 TCU
  • Four #2 TCU
  • Three #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Three #2 Camalot
  • Three #3 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • One #5 Camalot
  • Nuts
  • 60m ropes

Photos

Rob Warden...Space Lizard
Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
 
Rob Warden...Space Lizard   Between Zion, Vegas, LA, an…
 
great route... anchor on the first pitch had a 1 for 1 bolt replacement and steel hardware was added. All rap anchors have steel hardware now. be aware that if you are rapping with 2 60M's, it will look like you can rap from P2 (base of the OW) to the ground. Our 60M was dangerously short, bring a 70M. Jul 6, 2015
Sgregory  
 
Great route!(First 4 pitches) #6 for crux. Approached via Wash below the buttress. This was fairly straightforward wash-eneering. Oct 29, 2014
eric whewell
Longmont, CO
 
eric whewell   Longmont, CO
 
Great climbing on the first 4 pitches. The crux section involves pulling through a wide roof, its physical but short. A #6 camalot was great to have. Rack beta on here was pretty good. Could likely do it with 1 less 3 and 4 camalot. The rap anchors don't have chains so consider bringing some extra cord or webbing to back up or remove the old stuff.

We approached via the Watchman Trail and then bushwacked and side-hilled over to the Gatekeeper Wall. We descended the wash directly below. In the future I would approach via our descent route, up the wash straight to the base of the wall. Apr 11, 2014
Mike Anderson
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Mike Anderson   Colorado Springs, CO
 
I give this 4 stars for the first four pitches. This makes a great half-day outing of consistent 5.11 climbing with a short 12- crux. Feb 1, 2009