Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Gatekeeper Crack

5.10 A2-, Trad, Aid, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3.7 from 3 votes
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - Oct. 2006
Utah > Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Gatekeeper Wall
Warning Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.

With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.

Location

Begin 40' right of Locksmith Dihedral behind a prominent 200' pillar.

Protection

  • One #00 TCU
  • Three each #0 - #1 TCU
  • Four each #2 - #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Four each #2 - #3 Camalot
  • One #3.5 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • One #5 Camalot
  • Four KB
  • One LA
  • One 1/2" angle
  • Nuts
  • Micro Nuts
  • Sliders
  • Hook
  • 60m ropes

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Following the steep last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Chris Following the steep last pitch.
Following the 4th pitch - C2<br> Photo by D. Jones
[Hide Photo] Following the 4th pitch - C2 Photo by D. Jones
looking at p2 on gatekeeper from a distance
[Hide Photo] looking at p2 on gatekeeper from a distance
looking at base of locksmith and gatekeeper October 2023
[Hide Photo] looking at base of locksmith and gatekeeper October 2023
From the Summit
[Hide Photo] From the Summit
Down on P4
[Hide Photo] Down on P4
Topo
[Hide Photo] Topo
Dave leading the steep last pitch.
[Hide Photo] Dave leading the steep last pitch.
Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.
[Hide Photo] Gatekeeper Crack follows the right line.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Aaron S
[Hide Comment] Anyone know if this one has gone clean yet? May 24, 2010
Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
[Hide Comment] Completed in one day, on Labor Day 2010. Few notes;

P2 goes free at hard 5.10 with SMALL gear. (mulitple grey TCUs)
One talon hook is all that is needed mid P4, if you can topstep like a mofo you dont need it.

Mandatory free move topping out P4 (The Pucker Step!)

We place 4 pins on P6. WILL NOT GO CLEAN YET (but soon)

Good route and Location, pretty straight forward aid climbing,


Gear, triple set smallest thing you own to red camolot, double set yellow to number 4 camolot. One 4.5 or New 5. Two were usefull but not neccesary. No big greem cam. Nuts, A few LA or KB Sep 7, 2010
jonfoster
Flagstaff
[Hide Comment] I liked having some beaks to hand place on P4.

We left 3 pins on P6 to facilitate less nailing by future parties. A red ball nut was also useful for that thin section.

Agreed on not needing anything larger than #5 C4 (Purple) but I did enjoy having two of that size.

Fun route. Would likely get done a ton if it was closer to the road. Nov 22, 2021
Zion Climbing Coalition
Southern UT
[Hide Comment] Large Rockfall October 2023 - see images for more. P1 and P2 likely changed or new loose rock. Rappel Anhcor to ground likely gone Nov 2, 2023