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Routes in Gatekeeper Wall

Gatekeeper Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-
Locksmith Dihedral T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, Aid, 700 ft, 6 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Dave Jones, Brian Smoot & Chris Owens - Oct. 2006
Page Views: 2,838 total · 23/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Feb 24, 2008
Admins: Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Andrew Gram

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

Ascend the clean, excellent crack system behind the pillar for 6 steep aid pitches to the top. There is a small bivy ledge (1 lying down) on top of pitch 4. We only placed 6 pins on this otherwise clean route, of which we highly recommend. Faster parties can do this route in a day.

With a few more ascents, this route will certainly go hammerless.

Location [Edit]

Begin 40' right of Locksmith Dihedral behind a prominent 200' pillar.

Protection [Edit]

  • One #00 TCU
  • Three each #0 - #1 TCU
  • Four each #2 - #3 TCU
  • Two #.75 Camalot
  • Three #1 Camalot
  • Four each #2 - #3 Camalot
  • One #3.5 Camalot
  • Two #4 Camalot
  • One #4.5 Camalot
  • One #5 Camalot
  • Four KB
  • One LA
  • One 1/2" angle
  • Nuts
  • Micro Nuts
  • Sliders
  • Hook
  • 60m ropes


Aaron S  
Anyone know if this one has gone clean yet? May 24, 2010
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Completed in one day, on Labor Day 2010. Few notes;

P2 goes free at hard 5.10 with SMALL gear. (mulitple grey TCUs)
One talon hook is all that is needed mid P4, if you can topstep like a mofo you dont need it.

Mandatory free move topping out P4 (The Pucker Step!)

We place 4 pins on P6. WILL NOT GO CLEAN YET (but soon)

Good route and Location, pretty straight forward aid climbing,

Gear, triple set smallest thing you own to red camolot, double set yellow to number 4 camolot. One 4.5 or New 5. Two were usefull but not neccesary. No big greem cam. Nuts, A few LA or KB Sep 7, 2010

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