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Routes in 2 - Shallow End

"I am the Eggplant" S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
101 S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bumblebee Party S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Downward Dog S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Forbidden Planet S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Grumpy Cat's Revenge S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hesitation Blues S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Johnny on the Spot S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Louder Than Words S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
MoonLight Pokey S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Morbius S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Most Painfull Elimination S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Paranoid Android S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Procrastination Proclamation S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pss Pss S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Robby the Robot S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Shit'n Cactus S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Splitting Bamboo S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Sun Salute S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tequila Sunrise S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Toilet to Tango S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Turtle Head S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 59 ft
FA: G Roberts
Page Views: 490 total · 4/month
Shared By: Angel Mangual on Feb 24, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This climb carries a ton of climbing in a short span. It starts beneath a black water streak and veers left after the forth bolt. It continues climbers right off the roof to the anchors.

The first crux is between the fourth and fifth bolt while coming out of the hole toward a ledge. At this ledge try to get it back because the red point crux starts here until clipping the eight bolt over the roof. The sixth bolt before the roof is a working bolt. During the red-point attempt, it is good just to skip it and save your energy (it makes for a fun and long whipper). We extended the bolt on the lip of the roof and it was very useful.

Both cruxes and the movement through the roof makes this route a must do in the area. It will take a lot of body tension and foot work.

Location

Left Side Wall climb left of I am the Eggplant

Protection

8 Bolts and 2 Bolt Anchors with steel carabiner

Photos

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